Apparel Materials

Chapter 1

1.01 A 01 Tests / Requirements / Certificate (the complete version is found at the end of this manual)

Chapter 2

2.05 chart for mandatory tests for knits
2.06 chart for mandatory tests for wovens
2.07 chart for mandatory tests on accessories
2.08 chart for mandatory zipper tests

Chapter 3

3.01 visual judgment of fabrics
3.03 color shade approval by spectrophotometer (knits and wovens)
3.05 visual viewing procedure

Chapter 4 (physical tests)

4.01 flammability CFR part 1610 / class 1
4.02 dimensional changes in home laundry (DIN 53892) adidas modified
4.03 dimensional changes in home laundry (AATCC 135) adidas modified
4.04 skewness in fabric and garment twist (AATCC 179) adidas modified
4.05 heat shrinkage (adidas method)
4.06 fuzz test (adidas method)
4.07 pilling (ASTM D 3512) adidas modified
4.08 snagging (ICI pilling box) adidas modified
4.09 bursting strength (DIN EN 13938-2) adidas modified
4.10 tearing strength (stripe method for rugby only) DIN EN ISO 13934 -1 adidas modified
4.11 tearing strength (Grab method) DIN EN ISO 13934 - 2 adidas modified
4.12 elongation of fabrics (Zwick / Instron) adidas modified
4.13 seam slippage BS 3320 (adidas modified)
4.14 tear growth resistance DIN EN 13937-2 adidas modified
4.15 tearing strength for button holes (rugby only) adidas method
4.16 abrasion resistance DIN 53863 / ISO R 36 adidas modified
4.17 padding test methods (adidas method)
4.18 padding requirements (adidas method)
4.19 determination of fabric-weight g/m² adidas modified
4.20 elongation / Elastic Force (DuPont/adidas modified)
4.21 cuttable Width (adidas method)
4.23 thread count / density (ASTM D3775 / ASTM D 3887-12) adidas modified
4.25 pilling Standard for Wool and Wool Blends (BS EN 12045-1) adidas modified
4.27 elongation of elastic fabrics c-clamp (Zwick/Instron) adidas modified)
4.28 exfoliate Strength Test (adidas method)
4.29 strength test on velcro fasteners ( Footweat ST-07 DIN 3415, Satra PM 123 )











Chapter 5 (color fastness)

5.01 color fastness to washing (ISO 105-C06 adidas modified)
5.02 colorfastness to perspiration ISO 105-E04 adidas modified
5.03 colorfastness to water ISO 105 - E01 adidas modified
5.04 colorfastness to crocking ISO 105 x 12 adidas modified
5.06 colorfastness to chlorinated water ISO 105-E03 adidas modified
5.07 colorfastness to chlorinated water (light) JIS L 0883 A
5.08 colorfastness to sea-water adidas modified
5.09 colorfastness to dry heating ( migration) JIS L 0879 adidas modified
5.10 phenolic yellowing test (Courtauld) adidas modified
5.11 colorfastness to light (ISO 105-B02 / 2) adidas modified
5.12 colorfastness to dry-cleaning (ISO 105-D01 / AATCC 132) adidas modified
5.13 chlorine resistance (adidas method)
5.14 color migration test for prints (oven test)
5.18 corrosion resistance of metal parts (Footwear test GE-04)

Chapter 6 (functional tests)

6.01 water repellency - spray test AATCC 22 modified
6.02 water resistance DIN EN 20811 / AATCC 127 modified
6.03 rain test AATCC 35 modified
6.04 water absorbency of fabrics ( method) modified
6.06 water vapour permeability JIS 1099- A1 cup up adidas modified
6.07 determination of drying time (adidas method)
6.08 air permeability of fabrics ISI EN 9237 (110Pa) adidas modified


Chapter 7 (garment test)

7.01 appearance and shrinkage after machine washing (adidas method)
7.02 appearance and shrinkage after hand washing (adidas method)


Chapter 8
Clima Fabric Requirements

Appendix









Chapter 2

2.05 chart for mandatory tests for knits

2.06 chart for mandatory tests for wovens

2.07 chart for mandatory tests on accessories

2.08 chart for mandatory tests on zippers




Please double-click on the icon above to open the document!



The ready made garment must comply with adidas required and approved fabric quality concerning:

¨ colourshade
¨ appearance
¨ fiber composition
¨ handfeel


Not acceptable:

¨ defects in evenness of fabric
¨ uneven dyeing
¨ color shading
¨ knitting or weaving faults
¨ holes
¨ undrafted parts
¨ soiling, oil spots
¨ dropped stitches
¨ distortion
¨ prints have to be durably fixed and soft in handfeel, the elasticity of prints must match to the elasticity of the fabric



Not acceptable strong smells such as:

¨ silver petrol
¨ fish
¨ carrier
¨ and other undefined bad smells







Purpose: To produce a product within the limits of acceptable variations of a specified color (specified color: adidas color standard)

Apparatus: Spectrophotometer compatible with the Spectraflash SF 600 plus CT, used by adidas as standard

Instrument settings: UV included (100% UV)
specular included
%R LAV SCI
LAV- Large Area View only
Must be set with 35 points

Calibration: The apparatus must be calibrated before starting the measurement

Conditioning: Before measurement, all fabrics must be conditioned at least for 30 min in an atmosphere of 65% +/- 2% humidity , 20°C +/-2°C and exposed to D 65 light.
Conditioning is mandatory for all natural fibers and their blends.
The measurements must be taken within 5 minutes after removal from the conditioning room.

Sampling. The sample must be folded in sufficient numbers of layers (minimum 4 layers) to prevent light transmission.
Light transmissions can be checked by measuring the fabric with the black tile and than with the white tile behind the sample. The readings should be the same. If not, the numbers of layers must be increased and the measurements repeated.
The sample must be smooth, and without any creases or tension, and always placed in the same direction. The measurements must be taken in length direction using the commercial face.

§ Expression of the calculated color difference with the values:

delta E : total color difference
delta L : lightness difference
delta C : saturation difference (brilliance)
delta H : hue angle difference

The adidas tolerances calculated by CMC 2:1

§ Tolerances for lab dip approval against the adidas color standard
delta E < 0,6 delta L < 0,6 delta C < 0,3 delta H < 0,3

§ Tolerances for bulk fabric and re-order approval against the adidas color standard and in consolidation with the released lab dip
delta E < 0,8 delta L < 0,8 delta C < 0,5 delta H < 0,5

Please note all approvals have to be done in the same direction. Example:
If the lab dip has been approved in e.g. delta a ‘ +’ area, than bulk must also be in delta a ‘ +’ area, or both in ‘ – ‘ area. Same on delta b, if the approval has been in ’+‘, than bulk also has to be in ‘ + ‘ area or both in ‘–‘ area.

Final acceptance of the col. shade by visual review, using D 65 and TL 84


How to check colors

Al individuals who are responsible for reviewing and making color decisions must be tested for color perception.

Note: adidas uses the Fansworth Munsel 100 Hue test to check for color perception

· the following light cabinets are approved by adidas: -
- Verivide CAC60, CAC120, CAC150
- Atlas Variolux
- Gretag Macbeth Spectralight 111

· The light cabinet should be:
- big enough to work comfortably - clean and empty of all items except lab dip and standard being evaluated- inside paint color must be neutral gray (Munsell N7)- bulbs: TL 84, D 65, and UV
note: it is essential to replace the bulbs after 2000hrs in use, the light cabinet should be serviced /calibrated on an annual basis and service log kept for future inspection

· A minimum lab dip swatch size of 3x3 inches is required.
· samples must be stable to ambient room conditions prior to make judgments. Samples
that have not been allowed to condition will show sensitivity to moisture and temperature.
· Compare the sample to the original adidas shade standard under D 65 and use TL 84 for metamerism. The sample should not exhibit significant metamerism an all other illuminants
for bulk fabric and re-order approval against the adidas color standard and in consolidation with the released lab dip
· D 65 is the primary light source, TL 84 is the secondary light sources for all visual and instrumental evaluation
· the observer should allow 20 seconds of adoption to the illumination in the lighting cabinet. When changing from D65 to TL 84, the observer should allow 20 seconds before making judgment
· Color observation must be made flat, on the bottom surface of lighting cabinet, in the lengthwise direction
- the original adidas shade standard and the sample must be aligned next to each other with their edges slightly touching
- the standard and the sample must be aligned in the same direction with respect to weave, knit pattern or other textures.
- turn the sample in different directions during viewing
- when viewing a fabric with nap (such as velvet or corduroy), always do this with the nap brushed in a downwards direction.
· The standard and the sample should be folded so that at least two layers of fabric are visible
· The observer should note color difference in Lightness, Chroma and Hue
· For each sample, the spectrophotometer readings should be compared with the visual conclusion

All final decision should be made from visual conclusion



Purpose: to reduce danger of injury and to avoid the use of any dangerously
flammable clothing textiles
This test is valid for all fabrics of natural or regenerated cellulose or their blends with synthetics

Requirements: normal flammability class 1

This class shall include textiles, which meet the minimum requirements. The trade as having no unusual burning characteristics generally accepts these requirements.

a) Textiles without nap, pile, tufting , flock or other type of raised- fiber surface.
Such textiles in their original state and after being dry-cleaned and washed as described in §1610.4(d) and 4 (e), and tested as described in 1610.4 shall be classified as class 1, as normal flammability, when the time of flame spread is 3½ seconds or more.

b) Napped, piled, tufted, flocked, or other textiles having a raised - fiber surface.
Such textiles in their original state and after being dry-cleaned and washed as described in § 1610.4 (d) and 1610.4 (e) and tested as described in 1610.4 shall be classified as class 1 normal flammability, when the time of flame spread is more than 7 seconds or when they burn with a rapid surface flash from 0 to 7 seconds, provided the intensity of the flame is so low as not to ignite or fuse the base fabric.

To conduct the method, please follow the test description of § 1610.4 CFR

All flammability testing should be conducted at a 3rd party lab.
Flammability must be run on every 20,000 yards of bulk, with a favorable result.


Purpose: Determination of dimensional changes in woven and knit fabrics after home laundering and line drying


Test description:
a) Specimen preparation

· Condition the specimen for at least 4 hours ( 20°C± 2°C and 65% ± 2% RH) before marking and again after the final line drying.
· Cut a piece (60cm x 60cm) out of the middle of the fabric.
· The specimen must be at least 10cm away from the selvage. Avoid creases and folds.
· Lay the fabric flat and remove wrinkles gently by hand without any tension or stretching the specimen.
· Mark three pairs of benchmarks, evenly spaced in the length and width direction, carefully follow grain lines. See diagram below.
· Benchmarks can be made using either centimeters or inches. For centimeters make the marks 50cm apart; for inches use an 18-inch benchmark
· There must be at least (minimum) 5cm or 2 inches from the benchmarks to the cut edge of the fabric.

b) Performing test
For International developed fabric orders, use the front loading machines.
For US developed fabric orders use top loading machines.
All line dry tests are preformed under wash/line dry 1 time




Diagram showing benchmarks


For Front Loading Machines
· Wash the specimen in a European washing machine or use a wascator being adjusted to a European washing machine.
· Use the washing temperature and cycle as specified in the care label of the later garment or by the fabric supplier.
· Add 50gm of standard domestic detergent (one which is most readily available within the region) for pre-washing cycle and 50gm for main cycle .
· Add test specimens and enough ballast to make sure that at least 70% of the machine filling is guaranteed.
· Remove the test wash load immediately after the final spin cycle and hang each specimen with the fabric length in vertical direction.
· Allow the specimens to hang in still air at room temperature until dry.
· After conditioning the specimen, lay each of them without tension on a flat, horizontal surface. Measure and record the distance between the benchmarks.
· Calculate dimensional change using formula below. Calculate the average warp and average weft dimensional change.




Top Loading Machines (USA) -
· Add sufficient detergent to wash
· Detergent - use a detergent most readily available within the region (example Tide, Cheer)
· Use specified water level (note: Wash Table), the selected water temperature for the washing cycle ( as specified in the care label or by the fabric supplier) and a rinse temperature of less than 29°C.
· Add 2gm of standard household detergent for every Liter of Water used in machine.
Example: If small load water level is 46 Liters then the amount of detergent used would be 92gms/per load
· Add test specimens and enough ballast to make a 2.0kg ± 0,1kg load.
· Remove the test wash load immediately after the final spin cycle.
· Hang each specimen with the fabric length in vertical direction. Allow the specimens to hang in still air at room temperature until dry.
· After conditioning the specimen lay each of them without tension on a flat, horizontal surface.
Measure and record the distance between the benchmarks.
· Calculate dimensional change using formula below. Calculate the average warp and average weft dimensional change.


Wash table for top loading machines.

Wash Method

Agitation Setting
Wash/Rinse

Total Load
Dry Load

Washing

Rinsing

Spin Cycle


Wash Cold


Normal cycle


2 kg
Wash temp
Liquor level
Wash time
Liquor level
Spin Time

30 ± 3 °C

45 L

12 min.

45 L

Normal cycle

Wash Warm

Normal cycle

2kg

40 ± 3°C

45L

12 min.

45L

Normal cycle




Evaluation:

Measurement before wash - Measurement after wash
---------------------------------------------------------------------------- X 100 = shrinkage (growth) in %
Measurement before wash


If % is less than 100% = Shrinkage (note this with a “ - “ sign)
If % is more than 100% = Growth (note this with a “ + “ sign)




Test Standards: Line Dry
Minimum requirements




KNITS WOVEN RIB RIB
All Knit Fabric All Woven Fabric (As Body Fabric) (As Body Fabric)
Construction Construction Without Elastane With Elastane


Fabric Properties

Content

Standard
(Length & Width)


Standard
(Length & Width)

Standard
(Length & Width

Standard
(Length & Width

100% Natural Fibers

100% Natural

(+/- 5%) x (+/- 5%)
max

(+/- 3%) x (+/- 3%)
max


(+3/-5%) x (+0/-5%)
max



(+0/-5%) x (+0/-5%)
max


Blends
(Chief Value Natural)


> 50% Natural


(+/- 5%) x (+/- 5%)
max


(+/- 3%) x (+/- 3%)
max


(+0/-5%) x (+0/-5%)
max



(+0/-5%) x (+0/-5%)
max


100% Synthetic



100% Synthetic

(+/- 3%) x (+/- 3%)
max

(+/- 2%) x (+/- 2%)
max


(+0%/-3%) x (+0/-3%)
max



(+0/-3%) x (+0/-3%)
max


Blends
(Chief Value Synthetic)


> 50% Synthetic

(+/- 3%) x (+/- 3%)
max

(+/- 2%) x (+/- 2%)
max


(+0%/-3%) x (+0/-3%)
max



(+0/-3%) x (+0/-3%)
max


Ribs

Used as Trim

(+0/-8%) x (+0/-8%)
max


N/A


N/A

N/A





Purpose: Determination of dimensional changes in woven and knit fabrics after home laundering and tumble drying (3 cycles). (USA orders)

Test description:

Specimen preparation

· Condition the specimen for at least 4 hours ( 20°C± 2°C and 65% ± 2% RH) before marking and again after the final tumble drying.
· Cut a piece (60cm x 60cm) out of the middle of the fabric.
· The specimen must be at least 10cm away from the selvage. Avoid creases and folds.
· Lay the fabric flat and remove wrinkles gently by hand without any tension or stretching the specimen.
· Mark three pairs of benchmarks, evenly spaced in the length and width direction, carefully follow grain lines. See diagram below.
· Benchmarks can be made using either centimeters or inches. For centimeters make the marks 50cm apart; for inches use an 18-inch benchmark
· There must be at least (minimum) 5cm or 2 inches from the benchmarks to the cut edge of the fabric.

Performing test

For International developed fabric orders, use the front loading machines.
For US developed fabric orders use top loading machines.
All tumble dry tests are preformed under wash/tumble dry 3 times.



Diagram showing benchmarks





For Front Loading Machines

· Wash the specimen in a European washing machine or use a wascator being adjusted to a European washing machine.
· Use the washing temperature and cycle as specified in the care label of the later garment or by the fabric supplier. If that is not available, use a 40C and 70 minute cycle in a European domestic washing machine. For the wascater, use a 5A program.
· Add 50g of standard domestic detergent (one which is most readily available within the region) for pre-washing cycle (if prewash cycle is included in your machine/cycle choice) and 50g for main cycle
· Add test specimens and enough ballast to make sure that at least 70% of the machine filling is guaranteed.
· Remove the test wash load immediately after the final spin cycle and place in tumble dryer.
Set the temperature as specified by fabric supplier.
If no dryer temperature is given, use low heat in dryer
Remove the specimen as soon as the machine stops.
· Repeat the washing & drying cycles an additional two times (total of 3 wash/dry cycles)
· Lay each specimen without tension on a flat, horizontal surface conditioning the sample for 4 hours. Measure and record the distance between the benchmarks.
· Calculate dimensional change using formula below. Calculate the average warp and average weft dimensional change.

Top Loading Machines (USA) –

· Use the wash temperature and cycle as specified by the fabric supplier. Look up wash temperature on table below and use the specified machine settings and rinse temperature. If care instructions are not available, use a 400 C instructions from the table below.
· Use a standard domestic detergent (one which is most readily available within the region such as Tide or Cheer. Use 45gr detergent for each wash load (1gr per liter; 45 liter wash)
· Add test specimens and enough ballast to make a 2.0kg ± 0,1kg load.
· Remove the test wash load immediately after the final spin cycle and place in tumble dryer.
Set the temperature as specified by fabric supplier.
If no dryer temperature is given, use low heat in dryer.
Remove the specimen as soon as the machine stops.
· Repeat the washing & drying cycles an additional two times (total of 3 wash/dry cycles)
· Lay each specimen without tension on a flat, horizontal surface conditioning the sample for 4 hours. Measure and record the distance between the benchmarks.
· Calculate dimensional change using formula below. Calculate the average warp and average weft dimensional change.



Wash table for top loading machines.


Wash Method
Agitation Setting
Wash/Rinse
Total Load
Dry Load
Washing
Rinsing
Spin Cycle


Wash cold


Normal cycle


2 kg
Wash temp
Liquor level
Wash time
Liquor level
Spin Time

30 ± 3 °C

45 L

12 min.

45 L

Normal cycle

Wash warm

Normal cycle

2kg

40 ± 3°C

45L

12 min.

45L

Normal cycle


Evaluation:
Measurement before wash - Measurement after wash
------------------------------------------------------------------------ X 100 = shrinkage in %
Measurement before wash

If % is less than 100% = Shrinkage (note this with a “ - “ sign)
If % is more than 100% = Growth (note this with a “+ “ sign)

Test Standards: Tumble Dry
Minimum requirements
KNITS WOVENS RIB RIB
All Knit Fabric All Woven Fabric (As Body Fabric) (As Body Fabric)
Construction Construction Without Elastane With Elastane

Fabric Properties

Content

Standard
(Length & Width)

Standard
(Length & Width)

Standard
(Length & Width)

Standard
(Length & Width)

100% Natural Fibers


100% Natural


(+ 5/ - 8%) x (+ 5 / - 8%) max


(+/- 5%) x (+/- 5%)
max

(+3/- 8%) x (+0/- 8%)
max


(+0/-8%) x (+0/-8%)
max


Blends
(Chief Value Natural)


> 50% Natural

(+ 5/ - 8%) x (+ 5 / - 8%) max

(+/- 5%) x (+/- 5%)
max

(+3/- 8%) x (+0/- 8%)
max


(+0/-8%) x (+0/-8%)
max


100% Synthetic



100% Synthetic

(+/- 4%) x (+/- 4%)
max

(+/- 3%) x (+/- 3%)
max

(+3/- 4%) x (+0/- 4%)
max


(+0/-4%) x (+0/-4%)
max


Blends
(Chief Value Synthetic)


> 50% Synthetic

(+ 5 / - 7%) x (+ 5 / - 7%) max

(+/- 3%) x (+/- 3%)
max

(+3/- 7%) x (+3/ -7%)
max


(+0/-7%) x (+0/-7%)
max


Ribs


USED AS TRIM


(+3/- 12%) x (+0/- 8%)
max

N/A
N/A
N/A


Purpose: To determine the change in skewness in woven and knitted fabrics or twist in garments when subjected to repeated automatic laundering procedures. Washing and drying procedure and conditions as used for dimensional stability test

Test description:

a) Fabrics
Prior to marking, condition the fabric for at least 4 hours in an atmosphere of 20°C ± 2°C, 65%± 2% RH.
Report if fabrics are distorted in its unlaundered state (grain slanting). The result after laundering should be considered as indicative of these specimens only.

b) Procedure:
Cut a piece 60cm x 60cm out of the middle of the fabric.
Mark lengthwise grain on each sample.

Using the shrinkage template, mark (2) pairs of lines at the corners of the 3 pairs of bench marks (50cm X 50 cm) for shrinkage. – each pair of lines should intersect creating a corner, (the vertical lines should follow the vertical grain line) (See Figure C below)

Label each intersection – A,B,C&D in clockwise direction starting at lower left corner
(See figure C below)





B C













A D
A D


50cm (18“)
50cm (18“)
LENGHWISE GRAIN
60cm (24“)







bench marks for dimensional stability (4.02 & 4.03)






60cm (24“)

(Figure C)


Wash and dry the specimen according to the method of the dimensional changes in home laundering (AATCC 135 (tumble dry) adidas 4.03). Condition the specimen after drying.
Measurement of square markings:



After the shrinkage has been recorded;
Measure in millimeters point A to C, and point B to D
(see figure below)




B C













A D
Lengthwise Grain


















(Figure E)


Calculate the % of Spirality by using the following calculation:

[ 2(AC –BD) / (AC + BD) ] X 100 = % of change

Report the % of Spirality.

Minimum requirement: knits < 5% woven < 2



Purpose: Determination of dimensional change, and resistance to any form of color change, when subjected to hot press or iron.

Test description:

a) Apparatus

Heating device, providing even heat transfer to the specimen from the top, by close contact, at a controlled temperature, the size of the heating plate should be at least 40cm x 40 cm minimum and a given pressure of 4 bar (or 58 lb/in2)

b) Sample preparation

Cut 2 pieces 50cm x 50cm out of the test fabric.
Lay the fabric flat and mark with three 30cm pairs of benchmarks parallel to the length and width of the fabric. See diagram below.
Cut two white pieces 40cm x 40cm of the same fabric quality





Diagram showing benchmarks




.

c) Test performing

Dry pressing:
· Lay the test specimen flat on the bottom plate of the press.
· Place one dry white fabric piece (equal quality to the test specimen) on top of the specimen, lower the top plate of the heating device and leave the specimen for 15 seconds at a temperature of 170°C.
· Before evaluation, remove the cotton cloth from specimens and let the sample fabric condition under 20°C ± 2°C and 65% ± 2% RH for 4 hours

Damp pressing:
· Soak the other white fabric piece in distilled water, and squeeze so that the fabric contains its own weight of water.
· Lay the dry test specimen (equal quality to the test specimen) on top of the bottom plate of the press, place the wet piece on top, lower the top plate of the heating device and leave the specimen for 15 seconds at a temperature of 170°C.
· Before evaluation, remove the wet fabric from specimens and let the sample fabric condition under 20°C ± 2°C and 65% ± 2% RH for 4 hours


Evaluation:
gray scale for color changing
DIN 54001
ISO 105-A02
SNV 195805
AATCC 1


Minimum requirement:

Dimensional change < ± 2%

Color change grade > 4 - 5




Purpose
To evaluate how much fuzz of such products as raised surface fabrics, brushed and hairy fabrics will adhere on other products

Procedure
Place a cellophane tape (18mm width, tape like Tesa tape)) on the test specimen in weft direction (adhesive side should face the brushed or hairy fabric). Apply a load of 3.9 kPa as specified in the following figure and leave it for 5 min.
Remove the cellophane tape very slowly, place it again on different parts of the test specimen, repeat same procedure 5 times. Conduct this test 3 times




Assessment
Assess the amount of fuzz adhered to the cellophane tape using the assessing scale.

Requirement:

Take the average value of the 3 measurements

Fuzz adhering of the inside of the fabric - grade 3

Fuzz adhering of the outside of the fabric - grade 4







Purpose: Determination of the resistance to the formation of pills and other related surface changes on
textile fabrics, using the Random Tumble Pilling Tester

Apparatus and materials:

- random tumble pilling tester
- cork cylinder liners
- air injection device (14kPa)
- cotton sliver, 4301 tex, 6mm length
- adhesive (Elmer’s Glue-All order no. E 372, ratio glue : water = 1:1) for sealing the
edges of the specimens
- rating standard for knits - Martindale standard photos art. 992 / K1,K2,K3
- rating standard for woven – ASTM standard photos


Test description:

a) Specimen preparation

Cut specimens in squares (105 mm) on the bias at an approximate 45° angle
to the warp (wale) and filling (course) directions. Take 3 specimens from
the fabric. Cut the specimens evenly across the width of the fabric sample. Avoid areas with crinkles and other distortions. Do not cut specimens near the selvage
Seal the edges of all specimens to a width not exceeding 3 mm on the face of the fabric with adhesive. Dry the specimens for at least 2 hours.

b) Preparation of apparatus
Fit a cork liner around the inside of a cleaned test chamber. Cork liners can be used for 1 hour on each side before they need to be discarded.
c) Conditioning
Condition the specimens and the cork liners in a standard atmosphere
(20°C ± 2°C, 65% ± 2°C RH) for at least 4 hours prior to testing.

d) Procedure
Place 3 specimen, all from the same sample and 25 mg of 5 mm gray coloured cotton fibre into the chamber. Place the cover on the chamber and set the timer and run the machine for 30 min.

After each test is complete, remove the specimens and clean off the excess sliver. Each test chamber should be cleaned of excess sliver after each test.
Evaluation:

- use the lightbox cabinet under light D 65
- look at specimen while rotating in different directions
- evaluate knitted specimen against the Martindale standard photos, art. 992
- K1 (fabrics knitted with gauge below 5 - 12
- K1 or K2 knitted with gauge 14 - 16
- K2 (fabrics knitted with gauge above 18 - 28
- K3 (fabrics knitted above gauge 28 and Micro knits)
the pilling will be rated on scale 5 -1,


The Martindale rating is a ½ grade rating, therefore:

no pilling - grade 5
standard photo reads 4-5 - will be rated as 4
standard photo reads 3-4 - will be rated as 3
standard photo reads 2-3 - will be rated as 2
standard photo reads 1-2 - will be rated as 1

- evaluate the woven specimen (fabric out of high textured filament yarns, stabled fibres, brushed fabrics or with sand-finish) against the ASTM D 3512 standard photos
- specimens of polar fleece; final decision should be made by P&C / R&D
hairiness (fuzzing), comment on the report with ‘ slight, medium, serious’




Minimum requirement :

woven specimen - ASTM D3512 photo standards - grade > 4

knit specimen - K1 photo standards coarse piling – grade > 3
knit specimen - K2 photo standards regular pilling – grade > 3
knit specimen - K3 photo standards micro pilling – grade > 4






Purpose: Determination of the resistance of fabrics against the formation of snags and other surface changes

Apparatus:

ICI pilling tester, one box fitted with 6 standard spikes placed in the middle of each box side.
4 standard rubber tubes
Apparatus maintenance:
Spikes in apparatus must be checked every 3 months –
Cut samples from a fabric known and rated for snagging
If snagging has decreased by 1 point, the spikes are considered dull and must be replaced.

Test description:

· Snagging test should be performed on all fabrics using filament yarns.
· Samples should be prepared similar to the instructions of BS EN 12945-1 for pilling.
· Before cutting the test specimen, the fabric has to be washed 1 times, to wash off eventually applied finish (refer to description of “dimensional changes in home laundering of fabrics” 4.02)
· Cut 4 pieces of 12,5 x 12,5 cm (2 in vertical and 2 in horizontal direction), the specimen should be folded right sides together, stitch the edges together (seam allowance 12mm) forming a tube.
· 6mm should be trimmed off of each end of the specimen
· Turn the tube inside out so that the face side is on the outside of the tube.
- Mount the specimen onto the rubber tube by using a mounting jig, the specimen should be in the
center of the tube.
- the seam should be as flat as possible
- adhesive tape (approx. 19mm wide) should be used to tape each end of the specimen to the
tube.
- 6 mm of the tube should be exposed at each end of the tube
- Condition the specimen to 20°C ± 2°C and 65% ± 2% RH for 4 hours.

· Place the tubes into the snagging box and start the apparatus and stop after 3600 rotations.

Assessment:

The tested specimen will be assessed in a viewing light-box cabinet (light source D 65)
The specimen will be compared visually with the photo standards for snagging supplied by ICI



Minimum requirement:

Knits: > 4

Woven: > 4



Purpose: To determine the force or pressure required to rupture a knitted or non-woven fabric by use of Rubber Diaphragm Bursting Tester

Specimen preparation
Cut out of different fabric areas 5 pieces, at least 15 x 15 cm (6” X 6”). Condition these specimen in a standard atmosphere of 20°C ± 2°C, 65% ± 2% RH for 4 hours

Apparatus
For the Air Diaphragm Bursting Tester.- Clamp firmly and uniformly securing test specimen between 2 annular, plane, parallel and preferably stainless steel surfaces, without slippage during the test. The upper and lower clamping surface shall have a circular opening at 50 cm². The diaphragm should be replaced after 300 inflations.

For the Mullens Burster - Place the specimen over diaphragm so that it lies flat and tensionless.
The diaphram opening is approx. 3cm in diameter. Clamp the sample down.
The diaphragm should be replaced after 300 inflations.

Test performing
For the Air Diaphragm Bursting Tester.-
The specimen is clamped over the expandable diaphragm. The Diaphragm is expanded by air to the point of the specimen rupture. The difference between the total pressure, required to rupture the specimen and the pressure required to inflate the diaphragm is reported as the bursting strength.

For the Mullens Burster –
Run the test keeping you hand on the forward/backward lever; as soon as the fabric ruptures, immediately reverse the control handle allowing the pump to automatically return to the neutral position. Read the psi level and record.

Requirements (not valid for fabrics used for Soccer and Rugby)

For the Air Diaphragm Bursting Tester.

Knit Fabric Weight
Minimum Bursting strength

Natural/Synthetic Fibers
140 g/m² - 220 g/m²
> 170 kPa
220 g/m² - 350 g/m²
> 250 kPa

For the Mullens Burster

Knit Fabric Weight
Minimum Bursting strength by Fabrication


100% Natrual/ Fiber Blend
100 Synthetic
< 3.5 oz/yd2
40 psi
60 psi
3.6 to 6.0 oz/yd2
50 psi
70-100 psi
>6.0 oz/yd2
60 psi
>100 psi




Purpose: To determine the breaking strength of woven fabrics - for Rugby only


Test description:

Specimen preparation
· Cut a piece of representative fabric 500mm in length and full width, wash and dry three times.
· The fabric should be without any defects like damages or creases.
· Cut a total of 6 specimens - 3 in warp and 3 in the weft direction out of the fabric.
· The specimen have to be tested in a conditioned room (20°C ± 2°C, 65% ± 2%RH).
· Each specimen size is 300mm in length and 60mm in width.
· Fray out each side of specimen (right and left) for 5mm.

Test condition
· Before testing the specimens must be placed in the conditioned room for at least 4 hours.
· Place the specimen into the tester (grip distance is 200 mm)
· Fix the specimen in the upper and lower grip, so the specimen hangs perfectly vertical and horizontal to the warp and weft yarns.
· Testing apparatus crosshead speed should be set at 100 mm/minute.


Evaluation
The result shown on the display should be marked down.
The results are averaged and read separately by Warp and Weft groups.
Example:
Warp (average of 3 specimen)
Weft (average of 3 specimen)


Requirement
woven fabric used for rugby (all weights and types)

Warp: > 800N Weft: > 600N




Purpose To determine the breaking strength of woven fabrics


Specimen preparation

· Cut a piece of the representative fabric 500mm in length and one full width.
The fabric should be without any defects like damages or creases.
· Cut a total of 6 specimens, 3 in the warp and 3 in the weft direction out of the fabric.
Each specimen is 150mm in length and 100mm in width.
· A line should be marked exactly 38mm in length along the 150mm length.
The line must precisely follow the warp / weft grain line
· The specimen must to be tested in a conditioned room (20°C ± 2°C, 65% ± 2% RH).


Test condition

· Before testing, the specimen must be placed in a conditioned room
20°C ± 2°C and 65% ± 2% RH for a minimum of 4 hours.
· Place the specimen into the tester (distance of the grips 75 mm apart)
· Fix the specimen in the upper grip and lower grip, so the marked line hangs perfectly vertical.
· Testing apparatus crosshead speed should be set at 50 mm/min
.

Evaluation

The result shown on the display should be marked down.
The results are averaged and read separately by Warp and Weft groups.
Example:
Warp (average of 3 specimens)
Weft (average of 3 specimens)


Requirement:

For woven fabrics all weights and types, not used for Rugby


Warp: > 250N Weft: > 250N




Purpose: Determination on the elongation and resilience of elasticized fabrics

Test description:

Apparatus:
Tensile testing machine, rubberized jaw 11 cm x 3 cm, jaw distance 10 cm


Specimen preparation

Wash and dry a fabric piece of sufficient size 3 times, according to the wash method 4.03 at a temperature of 40°C

Cut a total of 6 specimens :

3 pieces (20 cm X 10 cm) in length direction following the grain line and
3 pieces (20 cm x 10 cm) in width direction.
· For Ribs – Cut 3 pieces in the width direction only.
Condition the specimen in 20°C± 2°C, 65% ± 2% RH for 4 hours.
· Place the specimen, between the upper and lower clamp (distance 10 cm) mark the distance of the clamps on the test specimen with a marker.
· Crosshead speed of testing apparatus should be set to 300mm/min ± 15 mm/min


Test performing

· Start the machine and stretch the fabric
· The machine should cycle 2 times (exercising the fabric), follow table below for amount of pull necessary.
· Report percentage of extension on 3rd cycle.
· Remove the fabric specimen out of the machine as soon as clamp returns to original position.
· Lay specimen flat on a table, measure between the 10cm clamp lines for recovery after 1 hour relaxation.

Evaluation of elongation:

extended length – initial length
------------------------------------------ x 100 = % of stretch
initial length

Evaluation for recovery:

extended length – recovery length
---------------------------------------------- x 100 = % of recovery
extended length – initial length










Standards: Elongation minimums




Fabrics
(Body fabrics)
Fabrics
(Comfort knits)
Ribs (as trim)
without elastane
(After Wash)
Ribs (as trim)
with elastane
(After Wash)

Rib (body fabric)
Without elastane
(after wash)

Rib (body fabric)
With elastane
(after wash)

60N (13 lb) force
Length X Width
44N (10lb) force
Length X Width
13N (3 lb.) force
Width Only
22N (5 lb.) force
Width Only
13N (3 lb.) force
Width Only
22N (5 lb.) force
Width Only
> 8% elastane
> 140% x 90%
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
< 8% elastane
(Comfort knits)
N/A
> 20% x 60%
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
Rib
Without elastane
N/A
N/A
> 60%
N/A
> 100%
N/A
Rib
with elastane
N/A
N/A
N/A
> 80%
N/A
> 130%




Standards: Resilience (Recovery) minimums After 1 hour

Fabric spec
Fabrics
(body fabrics)
Fabrics
(Comfort knits)
Ribs (as trim)
without elastane
(after Wash)
Ribs (as trim)
with elastane
(after Wash)
Rib (body fabric)
Without elastane
(after wash)
Rib (body fabric)
With elastane
(after wash)

60N (13 lb) force
Length x Width
44N (10lb) force
Length x Width
13N (3 lb.) force
Width Only
22N (5 lb.) force
Width Only
13N (3 lb.) force
Width Only
22N (5 lb.) force
Width Only
> 8% elastane
> 95%
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
< 8% elastane
(Comfort knits)
N/A
> 90%
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
Rib
without elastane
N/A
N/A
> 85%
N/A
> 85%
N/A
Rib
with elastane
N/A
N/A
N/A
> 95%
N/A
> 95%



Purpose: The test method covers the determination of the resistance to slippage of Filling yarns over warp yarns, or warp yarns over filling yarns using a standard seam.

Test description:

Apparatus
Single needle industrial lock stitch machine
Tensile strength tester, capable of giving a rate of jaw separation of 100 mm/min ± 10 mm
Sewing thread: 100% PES core spun yarn, having a continuous filament PES core-yarn and a
staple PES fiber sheath, thicket no. 80 ( 250 dtex x 2 )
Needle no. 90.

Specimen preparation
· Wash and dry enough fabric 3 times before conducting the test,
according to wash method of dimensional changes of fabrics in home laundry at 40°C.
· Cut a piece of the representative fabric 600mm length and full width.
· The fabric should be without any defects like damages or creases.
· The specimen should be tested in a conditioned room (20°C± 2°C, 65%± 2% RH).
· Cut a total of 6 specimens, 3 in warp and 3 in the weft direction out of the washed fabric.
· The specimen size is 100mm in length and 250mm in width.
· Fold the 100 mm length in half.
· Make a lock stitch seam with a seam allowance of 1cm from the fold-line.
Stitch density: 5 stitches/cm (13 stitches/inch), seam allowance 1cm (3/8 inch).
· Cut open the seamed specimen on the fold-line.


Test condition

· Before testing the specimens must be placed in a conditioned room for at least 4 hours.
· Place the specimen into the tester (distance of the grips 100 mm)

Evaluation

The test has to be stopped as soon as a seam opening of 5 mm is noticed
The result shown on the display should be marked down.
The results are averaged and read separately by warp and weft groups
Example:
Warp (average of 3 specimens)
Weft (average of 3 specimens)

Requirement
Woven fabrics (all weights and types)

Warp: > 200N Weft: > 200N



Purpose: To determine the tear growth resistance of fabrics

Test description:

Specimen preparation
· Cut a piece of the representative fabric 500mm in length and one full width.
The fabric should be without any defects like damages or creases
· Wash and dry specimen 3 times according to dimensional stability instruction.
· Cut 6 specimens, 3 in the warp and 3 in the weft direction out of the fabric.
· The specimen size is 200mm in length and 100mm in width.
· Starting at the edge and in the middle of the 100mm width, cut a line 10cm in length. The line must precisely follow the warp / weft grain line
· A point should be marked in the middle of the opposite side; measured 25mm from the cut edge.


Test conditions
· Before testing, specimens must be in conditioned room (20°C ± 2°C, 65% ± 2% RH)
for a minimum of 4 hours.
· Cross-head speed should be set at 100mm/min
· Fix the specimen, one leg in the upper grip, the other leg in the lower grip.
· Tear the specimen – starting from the side with the cut line - up to the marked point.


Evaluation
The result shown on the display should be marked down.
The results are averaged and read separately by warp and weft groups
Example:
Warp (average of 3 specimens)
Weft (average of 3 specimens)


Requirement:

For woven fabric (all weights and types)

Warp: > 10 N Weft: > 10 N






Purpose: To determine the force which is needed to break the button hole on rugby garments according to the Grab Method ( DIN 53858 modified)

Test 1: Cut a length of tape 50 cm long, measure to 10 cm and sew a button hole crosswise (1cm length), use the same yarn and stitch density as in the later garment. The buttonhole must be in the center of the tape width. Cut the tape in pieces of 5 cm length.

The distance between the clamps should be 3 cm. Place the tape in lengthwise direction between the clamps; the buttonhole must be in the center. Close the clamps and start testing.
Velocity is 100 mm/min

Calculation: average of 3 measurements

Minimum requirement > 600N (>135 lb.)

Test 2: Cut a length of tape 50 cm long, measure to 10 cm and sew a buttonhole lengthwise
(1 cm length), use the same yarn and stitch density as in the later garment. The buttonhole must be in the center of the tape width. Cut the tape in pieces of 5 cm lengths.

The distance between the clamps should be 3 cm. Place the tape cross wise between the clamps. The button hole must be in the center. Close the clamps and start testing.
Velocity is 100 mm/min

Calculation: Average of 3 measurements

Minimum requirement > 600N


Purpose: The rotary abrasion test is used for heavy duty fabrics, which will be stressed by abrasion during normal usage. It is not applicable for stretchable fabrics microfiber fabrics or fabrics which will be deformed easily.

Specimen preparation:

Cut across the entire width of the fabric 5 round pieces of 100 cm².
The samples have to be conditioned at 20°C ± 2°C and 65% ± 2% rel. humidity for at least 2 hours.

Apparatus (Schopper)

The specimen will be mounted in a circular clamp over an obtuse-angled metal cone, by means of a clamping ring and a tightening collar. The vault height of the cone should be 5 mm. The test area of the specimen is 50cm²
The driving mechanism is such that the circular clamp makes a reciprocal motion after 50 turns.
The balance head and the abrading plate should have a free movement in a direction perpendicular to the plane of the reciprocating specimen clamp. The vertical pressure of the balance head (abrading plate) depends on the m²-weight of the fabric.

m²-weight up to 100 vertical pressure 1 N
m²-weight > 100 - 150 vertical pressure 2 N
m²-weight > 150 - 300 vertical pressure 5 N
m²-weight > 300 vertical pressure 10 N


As abradant, emery paper is used , the grain depends on the fabric
up to 150 g/m² emery paper grain 400
> 150 g/m² emery paper grain 280

Test procedure

Place the samples into the test machine. If the vertical pressure of the balance head and the emery paper has been adjusted according to fabric, the machine can be started.

Evaluation

Determine the end point by one of the following criteria as specified:

Visual rating - check the specimen after 50 cycles, evaluate visually for the effect of abrasion on luster, color, fabric structure. If nothing has been changed continue for the next 50 cycles until a change is noted. Report the number of cycles. The test should be continued until a hole in the fabric specimen is visible, report the number of cycles.

The fabric fails if there is any change in structure, color or luster noted below 1000 cycles, and if a hole appears below 1000 cycles.
Excluded from this test are pigment dyed fabrics and prints


Purpose: To determine the stability of padding (polyfill)

Test description:

m² - weight: scope to determine the weight of the padding

§ cut 4 samples out of different areas, across the width
§ remove the bonding if possible
§ use an electronic balance to determine the weight
§ calculate the result for unit g/m² or oz/yd²
§ report the average weight of the padding and if possible of the
bonding separately

tolerance for the padding ± 7,5%
tolerance for the bonding ± 5%

Thickness:

Scope: to determine the thickness of the padding. This is usually a pre-determined value in the sales contract
§ cut 4 samples out of different areas at 20 x 20 cm
§ use a thickness tester to determine the thickness
§ measure the thickness after I minute of resilience in mm / inch
§ measure the thickness after first and third washing ( use the sample of the evaluation of batting)

Requirement:

Before washing the thickness must comply to the pre-determined value
After 3rd washing the thickness should have not less than 80% of the original thickness

Evaluation of batting (ASTM D 4470-88):

§ The batting shall be tested in a test panel assembly by laundering and dry-cleaning with gentle cycle
§ The batting shall be examined for integrity by comparing it to the Photographic Rating Standard
§ The rating will be taken after the first and the third wash

Grade 5 - no detectable change
4 - slight change
3 - moderate change
2 - significant change
1 - extreme change

Tolerance - not worse than grade 4









Compression and Resilience:

§ cut 5 specimens of 20 x 20 cm and pile them together
§ an initial pressure of 0,25g/m² is placed on top of the pile for 1 min.
§ the average height 'A' is measured
§ a pressure of 10g/m² is placed on top of the pile for 15 hours. Release the pressure , let the specimen relax for 30 min and measure the average height 'B'
§ the average height 'A should be equal to the average height 'B'




weight g/m² thickness (cm) yarn / thickness

40/50/60 5 - 8 mm PES / 1 - 3µ
80 8 - 10 mm PES / 1 - 3µ
100 10 - 15 mm PES / 1 - 3µ
140 15 - 20 mm PES / 1 - 3µ
180 20 - 25 mm PES / 1 - 3µ
220 25 - 30 mm PES / 1 - 3µ
260 30 - 35 mm PES / 1 - 3µ
300 35 - 40 mm PES / 1 - 3µ
340 40 - 45 mm PES / 1 - 3µ
380 45 - 50 mm PES / 1 - 3µ

weight tolerance ± 7,5%

Bonded padding

§ spray bonding - one side / two sides

§ heat bonding / laser bonding - one side / two sides

§ fleece or tricot bonding, 100%PES - one side / two sides, weight not over 15-20g/m²
§ the mentioned thickness is including the bonding, if the bonding cannot be removed
§ in exceptional cases also taffeta bonding can be used

All padding must comply to the adidas environmental requirements



Purpose: To determine fabric weight

Apparatus:

Die, circular cutters of 100 cm2 surface area.
Balance, capable of determining the mass of pieces to an accuracy of 0.1% of
the determined mass

Procedure:
· Cut 8 random samples using a circular cutting die with an area of 100 cm2 .
· The samples must be at least 10 cm away from selvage and taken from different areas in the
fabric so as not to duplicate testing of the same warp or fill yarns.
· Avoid creases or folds.
· Place cut specimens in conditioned room (20°C ± 2°C, 65% ± 2% RH) for a minimum of 4 hours.
· Weigh the 8 samples together on a calibrated balance accurate to 0.001 gm.

Calculate the weight using the formula.

(wt. gm = total weight in grams of 8 samples)


wt. gm gm/m2
X 100 = gm/m2 and = oz/yd2
8 33.91

Report results in gm/m2 or oz/yd² rounding to the nearest gm (0.00) and to the
nearest tenth of an ounce (0.0)


Requirement:

All types of fabric (knit, woven and non woven)

± 5% from specification



Requirement:

All types of fabric (knit, woven and non woven)

± 5% from specification





Purpose: Determination of the elongation and elastic force of elastic fabrics (manually operated)


Test description:

Specimen preparation


· Cut a total of 6 specimens – 3 pieces cut (20cm x 30cm) in lengthwise direction following the grain
line. Cut 3 pieces (20cm x 30cm) in width direction following the grain line.
· Cut the samples at least 10cm from the salvage.
· Condition the specimen for at least 4 hours ( 20°C± 2°C and 65% ± 2% RH)
· The specimens are folded in half to get a 10cm x 30cm sample.
-Mark the sample 10cm from both edges so that on the 30cm length there is a middle length of 10cm.


Test performing

· Lay the ruler flat on the table; take the marked specimen with both hands so that each thumb is on the marked lines.
· Press the left hand with the left mark on the zero point of the ruler and the right hand with the right mark is at the 10cm point.
· Stretch the sample with the right hand as far as possible. Read from the ruler the maximum extension.
· Stretch each specimen a total of 3 times; record each extension.
· Take the average of the 3 readings, and record the average.
· Leave the specimens laying flat; Measure the elastic resiliency (recovery) immediately after
stretching and again after 10 minutes of relaxation.




Evaluation: for stretch

extended length – initial length
--------------------------------------------- X 100 = % of stretch
initial length


Evaluation: for recovery

extended length – recovery length
----------------------------------------------- x 100 = % of recovery
extended length – initial length







Standards: Elongation minimums



Fabrics
(Body fabrics)
Fabrics
(Comfort knits)
Ribs (as trim)
without elastane
(After Wash)
Ribs (as trim)
with elastane
(After Wash)

Rib (body fabric)
Without elastane
(after wash)

Rib (body fabric)
With elastane
(after wash)
> 8% elastane
> 140% x 90%
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
< 8% elastane
(Comfort knits)
N/A
> 20% x 60%
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
Rib
Without elastane
N/A
N/A
> 60%
N/A
> 100%
N/A
Rib
with elastane
N/A
N/A
N/A
> 80%
N/A
> 130%






Standards: Resilience (Recovery) minimums After 1 hour

Fabric spec
Fabrics
(body fabrics)
Fabrics
(Comfort knits)
Ribs (as trim)
without elastane
(after Wash)
Ribs (as trim)
with elastane
(after Wash)
Rib (body fabric)
Without elastane
(after wash)
Rib (body fabric)
With elastane
(after wash)
> 8% elastane
> 95%
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
< 8% elastane
(Comfort knits)
N/A
> 90%
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
Rib
without elastane
N/A
N/A
> 85%
N/A
> 85%
N/A
Rib
with elastane
N/A
N/A
N/A
> 95%
N/A
> 95%






Purpose
To confirm the actual usable/cuttable width of a fabric.

Test description

Apparatus

Steel Ruler with measurements in centimeters or inches.

Sample preparation

Condition the fabric to relative humidity of 65% ± 2% and a temperature of 20°C ± 2°C. for 4 hours
Lay fabric flat and remove wrinkles gently by hand without stretching the specimen.


Performing test

Using a steel ruler, measure the width for the actual usable width of the fabric. Do not include in the measurement the edges where the fabric was framed, glued or where a coating is inconsistent.

Report the actual cuttable width in centimeters and inches.



Requirements

Knit and Woven not less than stated in the fabric ID spec













Width Definition

Delivery X - With Stenter pin marks/or gummed edges.

B is the Usable width


A


B











Delivery Y - With Selvedges trimmed.
An allowance is needed on each selvedge of at least 1cm.
Therefore the Usable width in this case is D even though there
are no stenter marks.



C





E D E












Purpose:
To accurately determine the number of warp yarns and fill yarns per cm or inch in woven fabrics or to determine the number of wales and courses per cm or inch on a knit fabric.

Apparatus
Alfred Suter Co. Inc.; Traversing thread counter sufficient to measure a distance of 0 to 2.5 cm (or 0 to 2 inches or more).

Procedure:

Take 3 random counts using thread counter. Count the threads or stitches for 1 cm or 1-inch distance. The samples must be at least 10 cm (4 inches) away from selvage and taken from different places in the fabric so as not to duplicate testing of the same warp or filling yarns. Avoid creases or folds.

Count the number of warps and fillings or the number of wales and courses. Average the three samples. Calculate and report the counts for one centimeter and also for one inch. State the warp or wale direction first.

Requirement:
Fabric is approved if the count is not less or more than 5% of the supplier’s specified count (ID Spec). Be aware that the supplier’s specified count may reflect the greige count or count before the goods were finished.



Purpose: Determination of the resistance of woolen fabrics as wells woolen blended fabrics against the formation of pills and other surface changes (e.g. roughing up of the surface fibers or teasing out of the fabric fibers from the fabric)


Apparatus: ICI pilling tester, 4 standard rubber tubes

Test description:

Cut 4 pieces of 12 x 15 cm (2 in vertical and 2 in horizontal direction) and sew each of them together to a tube on the longer side ( seam width 1 cm).

Turn the tube inside out so that the face side is on the outside of the tube. Mount the specimen onto the rubber tube.
To hold the specimen in place cover the cut ends of the specimen with self-adhesive tape.
Condition the specimen to 20°C ± 2°C and 65% ± 2% RH for 4 hours.

Place the tubes into the pilling box and start the apparatus and stop after 7200 rotations.

Evaluation:

- use the light box cabinet under D 65
- look at tested specimen while rotating in different directions
- evaluate the specimen against the ICI pilling standard



Minimum requirement:

- knitted fabric grade 3-4
- woven fabric grade 4


Purpose: Determination on the elongation and resilience of elasticized fabrics

Test description:
For elongation and recovery either method 4.12 (grip method) or 4.27 (C-clamp method) is acceptable.

Apparatus:
Tensile testing machine
C-clamp fixture

Specimen preparation

· Cut a fabric piece, big enough to get out a total of 6 specimens
Wash and dry specimen 3 times (according to the wash method of dimensional changes
of fabrics in home laundry, method 4.03)
· 3 pieces (11 inch long x 3-7/8 inch wide) or (28cm x 10cm) in length direction following the grain line and 3 pieces (11 inch long x 3-7/8 inch wide) or (28cm x 10cm) in width direction.
· For ribs – Cut 3 pieces in the width direction only.
Perform test on after wash samples.
· Place 2 shorter ends together and stitch; ½ -inch or (1.3cm) seam allowance. Making a loop.
· In the middle of the specimen, make 2 marks 10cm apart; 1st mark is ½ -inch below stitch line, and second mark is 10cm from the first mark. See diagram below.
· Condition the specimen in 20°C± 2°C, 65% ± 2% RH for 4 hours.
· Place the specimen, over the upper and lower C-clamps. (distance between clamps 5” or 12.6 cm)
· Crosshead speed of testing apparatus should be set to 300mm/min
½ inch seam allowance

10cm








Test performing

· Start the machine and stretch the fabric
· The machine should cycle 2 times (exercising the fabric), follow table below for amount of pull necessary.
For Rib – 100% cotton pull to 3 lb. (13 N); Blends and rib with elastane pull to 5 lb. (22 N)
· Report percentage of extension on 3rd cycle.
· Remove the fabric specimen out of the machine as soon as clamp returns to it’s original position.
· Lay specimen flat, measure between the 10cm marks for recovery after 1 hour relaxation.




Evaluation for elongation

extended length – initial length
----------------------------------------- x 100 = % of stretch
initial length


Evaluation for recovery:

extended length – recovery length
------------------------------------------------ x 100 = % of recovery
extended length – initial length


Standards: Elongation minimums



Fabrics
(Body fabrics)
Fabrics
(Comfort knits)
Ribs (as trim)
without elastane
(After Wash)
Ribs (as trim)
with elastane
(After Wash)

Rib (body fabric)
Without elastane
(after wash)

Rib (body fabric)
With elastane
(after wash)

60N (13 lb) force
Length X Width
44N (10lb) force
Length X Width
13N (3 lb.) force
Width Only
22N (5 lb.) force
Width Only
13N (3 lb.) force
Width Only
22N (5 lb.) force
Width Only
> 8% elastane
> 140% x 90%
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
< 8% elastane
(Comfort knits)
N/A
> 20% x 60%
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
Rib
Without elastane
N/A
N/A
> 60%
N/A
> 100%
N/A
Rib
with elastane
N/A
N/A
N/A
> 80%
N/A
> 130%


Standards: Resilience (Recovery) minimums After 1 hour

Fabric spec
Fabrics
(body fabrics)
Fabrics
(Comfort knits)
Ribs (as trim)
without elastane
(after Wash)
Ribs (as trim)
with elastane
(after Wash)
Rib (body fabric)
Without elastane
(after wash)
Rib (body fabric)
With elastane
(after wash)

60N (13 lb) force
Length x Width
44N (10lb) force
Length x Width
13N (3 lb.) force
Width Only
22N (5 lb.) force
Width Only
13N (3 lb.) force
Width Only
22N (5 lb.) force
Width Only
> 8% elastane
> 95%
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
< 8% elastane
(Comfort knits)
N/A
> 90%
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
Rib
without elastane
N/A
N/A
> 85%
N/A
> 85%
N/A
Rib
with elastane
N/A
N/A
N/A
> 95%
N/A
> 95%

Purpose:
To determine the exfoliate strength of prints, coatings, laminated and bonded materials
Apparatus
Random tumble pilling tester equipped with a ribbed rubber liner (instead of cork liner)
Air injection device 14 kPa













Test description
Cut out of the test sample 2 test specimens, each measuring 10 x 10 cm, separately one in warp direction and one in weft direction.
Stitch 2 dot lines of each specimen using a lock-stich machine as shown in the following pictures (15 stitches per 3 cm)
- If the print is almost as big as the specimen, one lockstitch seam should be on the longest part of the print.
- The distance between the 2 seams should be wider than 2 cm but both of them should be on the print.
- For very small prints, one seam on the longest part is enough.
- for bonded material no lockstitch seam is required

Fold the specimen with its surface inside, put A&B and C&D together, stitch between AB point and CD point using an over-lock machine.

Turn them over so that their surface is outside

Soak the specimen in distilled water for 10 minutes; make sure that the specimens are wet evenly,
Remove the excess water by pressing the sample slightly between dry towels.

Place the 2 specimen into the tester and run the tester for 15 minutes at a rate of appr. 2000rpm.

If the test specimen is very thick, test with one specimen and write comments on the report
The rubber liner should be changed when the ribbed surface becomes flat





Requirement:

No surface change or delamination for prints, coatings and bonded fabrics


Purpose: Determination of the colorfastness of dyeing and prints to domestic laundering.

Apparatus
· Apparatus for rotating closed containers in a thermostatically controlled water bath
· Stainless steel cylinders 500mL containers: (75 mm in diameter by 125 mm tall)
· Stainless steel balls with 0.6 cm in diameter.
· Multifiber: ISO Ref. Standard Multifiber Fabric DW
· Detergent- use either of following-
· ECE detergent (without fluorescent whitening agent
-OR-
· AATCC 1993 Standard Reference Detergent WOB (without fluorescent whitening agent).


Specimen preparation

Cut one piece of 10cm X 4cm from the test fabric and sew (or staple) together with a piece 10cm X 4cm of multifiber material SDC on one short side only (SDC=Society of Dyers and Colorists).

Test solution

For washing temperature 30°C or 40°C, prepare a testing solution of 4g/l ECE or AATCC detergent (without fluorescent whitening agent) and distilled water,
For washing temperature 60°C or 95°C prepare a testing solution of 4g/l ECE or AATCC detergent (without fluorescent whitening agent) and distilled water, plus 1g/l Sodiumcarbonate Na2Co3, pH 10.5


Test performing

The general test temperature is 40°C, unless 60°C or 95°C is required.
Only for these fabrics where the colorfastness does not achieve the requirements on 40°C, but at a temperature of 30°C, the developer must be informed for adjustment of the care instruction.

Add detergent solution and steel ball to containers and load containers equally on all sides in apparatus to insure balance in machine.

Load containers containing water, detergent and steel balls - Pre-heat the water bath for 10 minutes to the required temperature
Place the specimen into the test container, ratio of 9:1 ( 9 parts solution and 1 part fabric + multifiber stripe, e.g. for a fabric of 2g you need 18g solution) and 25 steel balls. Put the container into the tester (e.g. Linitest) and start testing, running time is 30 minutes at required temperature.








After the test, the fabric has to be rinsed 3 times: 2 times in cold distilled water
1 time in floating cold tap water for 10 min.
Squeeze the excess water from the specimen by hand.

Line-dry the specimen in warm air not exceeding 60°C
Be careful that multifiber and test-fabric do not touch each other.



Evaluation: grey scale for color staining
DIN 54002
ISO 105-A03
SNV 195806
AATCC 2

gray scale for color changing
DIN 54001
ISO 105-A02
SNV 195805
AATCC 1


Minimum requirement:

color staining grade 4*
color change grade 4 -5



*If white or light colored inserts are used together with dark colors in the same garment, grade 4-5 is requested for color staining, and an additional washtest between dark and light colored fabric is mandatory.




Purpose: Determination of the color fastness of colored and printed textiles to human perspiration

Specimen preparation:
Cut two pieces of 10cm X 4cm (4” X 1½”) from the test fabric and sew each of them together with a piece of multifibre material 10cm x 4cm (4” X 1½”)(SDC). Prepare two testing specimen per fabric, one for alkaline and one for acid perspiration test.

Test solution

alkaline solution: 1l distilled water
0,5g L-Histidin-monohydrochlorid-1-hydrate
(C6H9O2N3 HCL H2O)
5g Sodium Chloride NaCl
5g Sodium hydrogen orthophosphate - 12-hydrate
(Na2HPO4 12 H2O)
buffer the solution to the appropriate pH with a 0,1mol/l solution of sodium
hydroxyde

pH value 8,0
acid solution: 1l distilled water
0,5g L-Histidin-monohydrochlorid-1-hydrate
(C6H9O2N3 HCL H2O)
5g Sodium Chloride NaCl
2,2g Sodium di-hydogen orthophosphate 2-hydrate
(NaH2PO4 2H2O)
buffer the solution to the appropriate pH with a 0,1mol/l solution of sodium
hydroxyde

pH value 5,5

Test performing
· In individual flat bottom dish (one for each specimen and multifiber being tested).
· Pour 100ml of test solution into each flat bottom dish
· Soak each specimen in the test solution (the solution should well cover the specimen)
(one specimen in the alkaline solution and one in the acid solution)
· Soak specimens for 30 minutes (stirring and turning from time to time).
· After the specimen are completely wetted, remove specimen from solution, squeeze, and place the specimen between two acrylic or glass plates (alkaline and acid separately).
· Place the specimen into either Perspiration tester or Perspirometer
*If using the Perspiration tester close the tester with an 8lb. weight
*If using the Perspirometer, close the tester with a 5Kg wt. pressure
(either tester is acceptable)
· Place the tester in a pre-conditioned oven at (37 +/- 2 °C) for 4 hours.
· Remove from oven after 4 hours
· Dry the specimen at a temperature not exceeding 60°C make sure the multifiber and test fabric do not touch each other while drying.





Evaluation: grey scale for assessing staining
ISO 105-A03
BS 1006-A03
AATCC 2

grey scale for assessing color change
ISO 105-A02
BS 1006-A02
AATCC 1

Minimum requirement:
Color staining grade > 4
Color change grade > 4 - 5




Purpose: Determination of colorfastness to water on colored and printed textiles


Apparatus
Perspiration Tester or Persirometer
Pressure wt.
Distilled water
Conditioned oven,
Multifiber strips (ISO DW)

Specimen preparation

Cut one piece, 10cm X 4cm (4” X 1-½”) from the test fabric and sew each of them together with a piece of multifiber material 10cm x 4cm (4” X 1-½”)(SDC).


Test performing
· In individual beakers (one beaker for each specimen and multifiber being tested).
· Soak each specimen in distilled water (150ml) for 30 minutes, soak the specimen evenly and squeeze out excess water.
· Place the specimen between two acrylic or glass plates
· Place the specimens into either Perspiration tester apparatus or Perspirometer apparatus
(either apparatus is acceptable)
*If using the Perspiration tester close the tester with an 8 lb. weight
*If using the Perspirometer, close the tester with a 5Kg wt. pressure
· Place the tester in a preconditioned oven at (37 +/- 2 °C) for 4 hours.
· Remove specimens from oven.
· Dry the specimen at a temperature not exceeding 60°C make sure the multifiber and test fabric do not touch each other while drying.


Evaluation: Grey scale for color staining
DIN 54002
ISO 105-A03
SNV 195806
AATCC 2

Grey scale for color changing
DIN 54001
ISO 105-A02
SNV 195805
AATCC 1


Minimum requirement: color staining grade > 4
color change grade > 4-5



Purpose: To determine the amount of color transferred from the surface of dyed and printed fabrics to other surfaces by rubbing.


Test description:


a) Apparatus: Crockmeter or equivalent
Crockmeter Test Cloth, combed cotton, desized, bleached (without optical brightener).
Graduated or Automatic Pipetter, or syringe tube
Calibrated balance

Sample preparation
Cut a piece of the test specimen fabric in warp and weft direction – of adequate size for the machine to achieve a good grip and large enough test area.
Cut 4 pieces of 100% Cotton bleached standard woven fabric (5cm X 5cm) -or-
Use 4 pieces of Crockmeter test cloth (precut 5cm X 5cm) 1 square is used for each test (wet & dry).

Test performing

Condition the specimen and the crock-square for at least 4 hours in an atmosphere of
20°C ± 2°C and 65% RH ± 2% (relative humidity).
Place the fabric specimen (in warp and weft direction) on the base of the Crockmeter resting flat on the abrasive cloth (the longer dimension in the direction of rubbing). Mount the white test cotton cloth square over the end of the finger of the Crockmeter and secure.

dry crocking:
-turn crockmeter 10 complete turns, at a rate of one turn per second
- weight:400g/m2 (=9N)

wet crocking:

- Weigh 1 cotton test cloth square ( in grams)
- Using the pipetter place an amount of distilled water equal to the weight of the crocking square onto
the surface of the crocking square. This will result in 100% wet pick up for the wet crocking.
(Example: Place 1 cotton test cloth squares on the calibrated balance.
the cotton test cloth square weighs .26gm – with pipetter (or syringe) add enough distilled water to cotton test cloth until the weight increases to .52 gm – if needed, adjust the pipetter, and repeat)

- turn crockmeter 10 complete turns, at a rate of one turn per second
- weight:400g/m2 (=9N)








Evaluation: AATCC Chromatic transference scale
-or-
grey scale for color staining
DIN 54002
ISO 105-A03
SNV 195806
AATCC 2


The color staining on the white testing square as well as the color changing of the tested specimen should be evaluated


Minimum requirement: Dry: grade > 4 Wet: grade > 3






Purpose Determination of the resistance of dyeing and prints to the action of active Chlorine on concentration such is used to disinfect swimming-bath water.
The active Chlorine concentration of 50 mg/l is intended for swimwear. The
active Chlorine concentration of 20 mg/l is intended for accessories such as
beach robes and towels.

Apparatus
Apparatus for rotating closed containers in a thermostatically controlled water bath
(e.g. Launderometer)
Stainless steel cylinders 500ml containers: (75mm in diameter by 125mm tall)
Hypochlorite solution


Procedure

Each specimen shall be tested in a separate container.
All sodium hypochlorite solutions should be prepared just prior to use.
Cut a piece out of the test fabric (10cm x 4cm).
Place test fabric into stainless steel cylinder
Immerse the specimen in the freshly prepared sodium hypochlorite solution ( 50mg/l active chlorine or 20mg/l active chlorine depends on the fabric use) liquor ratio 100:1, ensuring that the specimen is thoroughly wetted.
Close the stainless steel container and turn on rotating apparatus and agitate at 27°C ± 2°C for 1 hour.
Remove the specimen from the container, squeeze out excess moisture and dry it by hanging it in air at room temperature in subdued light.

Evaluation:
Assess the change in colour with the grey scale

Grey scale for color changing
DIN 54001
ISO 105-A02
SNV 195805
AATCC 1


Minimum requirement

Color change - grade > 4

This test method is in accordance with ISO 105-E 03.


Purpose: This standard specifies the test method for colorfastness of dyed fabrics,
blended with cellulose fibers 50% and more, to chlorinated tap water


Principle:
A specimen is treated with dilute solution of sodium hypochlorite by the specified method, and after drying it, the color fastness is assessed by comparing the change in color appearing on the specimen with the gray scale for assessing change in color.


Test condition: 10mg/l active chlorine; pH 7,0 ± 0,2; temperature 25 ± 2 °C;
liquor ratio 200 :1; duration 30 min


Apparatus and materials:
Washing tester (e.g.Linitest) consists of the cylindrical bottle made of stainless steel (550ml). Rotating device consists of the motor, the rotation shaft and the test bottle holder. The test bottle can be revolved at a rotation speed of 40 ± 2 turns /min in the constant temperature water bath. Having heating device, able to keep the test solution in the revolving test bottle at the specified temperature ± 2°C .
For the preparation of the test solution, please refer to JIS L 0884 A


Procedure:
Adjust the test solution maintained 25 ± 2°C previously so as to make its liquor ratio 200:1, put it together with the test specimen into the test bottle, close it tightly, mount the bottle to the washing tester and run the test at 25 ± 2 °C for 30 min.
Stop the tester, take the specimen out of the bottle, and insert it between filter papers or dry cotton cloth to dehydrate, air-dry it as it is.

Evaluation:
Assess the change in color with the gray scale
gray scale for assessing color change JIS L 0804 or ISO 105-A02

Minimum requirement: grade 3-4 or better






Purpose: Determination of the colorfastness to sea water of colored and printed fabrics used for swimwear


Test description:

Apparatus
Perspiration Tester or Perspirometer
Multifiber material (SDC) 10cm X 4cm (4” X 1½”)
NaCl
Conditioning Oven

Specimen preparation
Cut one piece,10cm X 4cm (4” X 1½”), from the test fabric and sew it together with a piece of multifiber material (SDC) 10cm X 4cm (4” X 1½”)
Test solution: 30g/l NaCl in 1L distilled water

Test performing
· In individual beakers (one beaker for each specimen and multifiber being tested).
· Pour 100ml of test solution into each beaker.
· Soak specimen in the test solution for 30 minutes, the specimen must be well covered with solution.
· Soak the specimen evenly, after 30 minutes squeeze out excess moisture.
· Place the specimen between two acrylic or glass plates,
· Place the specimens into either Perspiration tester apparatus or Perspirometer apparatus
(either apparatus is acceptable)
*If using the Perspiration tester close the tester with an 8 lb. weight
*If using the Perspirometer, close the tester with a 5Kg wt. pressure
· Place the tester in conditioning oven (37+/- 2°C) for 4 hours.
· When finished remove tester from oven, and specimens from tester.
· Line dry specimens in warm air not exceeding 60°C and be careful that the multifiber does not touch the test fabric.


Evaluation: Grey scale for color staining
DIN 54002
ISO 105-A03
SNV 195806
AATCC 2

Grey scale for color change
DIN 54001
ISO 105-A02
SNV 195805
AATCC 1


Minimum requirement: color-staining grade > 4
color-change grade > 4


Purpose: This test method is used to evaluate color change and color migration of dyed textiles, when subjected to the action of dry heat. This test method is not applicable for sublimation print fabrics.


Apparatus
Dry heating device, consisting of a pair of hot-plates and capable of pressing a constant adequate pressure 4 kPa and a to keep accurately to a specified temperature ± 2°C providing even heat transfer.

Test description:
A composite specimen is dry-heated by specified time and temperature. The color fastness of the specimen to dry heat is assessed, by rating the change in color of the specimen and un-dyed cloth with the gray-scale for assessing staining.

Specimen preparation
The size of the specimen shall be adequate to the size of the dry heating device, e.g. 10cm x 4cm. The white (bleached or dyed) fabric should be of same fiber composition as the dyed test sample.
Both samples should be sewn together at one short end with white cotton sewing thread.

Test performing
Condition the composite specimen in a standard atmosphere (21°C +/- 2° ; 65% rh +/-2%) for 4 hours . Rapidly place it between the hot-plates of dry heating device, which are kept at the specified temperature, and continue to press it for the specified time. Remove it from the dry heating device and leave it at room temperature in the standard atmosphere for about 4 hours.

Classification and condition of test

method temperature °C time (in seconds)
A 150 ± 2 30


Evaluation: gray scale for color staining
ISO 105-A03
SNV 195806
AATCC 2

gray scale for color changing
DIN 54001
ISO 105-A02
SNV 195805
AATCC 1

Requirements
staining grade > 4-5
color change grade > 4-5




Purpose: Determination of discoloration of yarns, fabric or garments caused by the action of oxides or nitrogen on yellowable phenols


Test description:

Apparatus
Test papers
Control Test Samples
Perspiration Tester and pressure weight
Polythene film (BHT = 2,6 Di- tert- butyl -4-nitrophenol)
Adhesive Tape
Conditioned Oven

Specimen preparation
Cut specimen (max. 5 cm x 7,5 cm) out of the middle of the test fabric
Only 1 specimen per fabric is necessary for testing.
Test to be performed on fabrics containing synthetic fibers.

Test performing
· The test paper is folded in half on the longer axis.
· Insert the fabric specimen between the folded paper to create a test sample, follow the same procedure to create a control test sample.
· The test sample is placed between 2 glass plates.
· A standard test package should consist of a maximum of 5 test samples plus 1 control sample,
each test sample should be separated by a glass plate.
· If less than 5 test samples are being run, then 7 glass plates should be used in the test package.
· The test package is firmly wrapped in 3 layers of BHT free (BHT = 2,6 Di- tert- butyl -4-nitrophenol) polythene film and sealed with adhesive tape.
· Place the specimen into either Perspiration tester apparatus or Perspirometer apparatus
(either apparatus is acceptable)
*If using the Perspiration tester close the tester with an 8lb. weight
*If using the Perspirometer, close the tester with a 5Kg wt. pressure
· The package is placed into a preconditioned oven at 50°C +/- 3°C for 16 hours.
· The test is valid if the control fabric is yellow.
· Since the color may fade on certain substrates, assessment should be completed soon after the package is opened.

Evaluation: The intensity of the yellow color is assessed by comparison with.

Grey scale for color staining
(ISO 105-A03/ BS 1006-A03)
AATCC 2


Minimum requirement: grade > 4 - 5




Purpose

Determination of color fastness to light for dyed and printed fabrics
(Xenon arc fading lamp test)


Specimen preparation:

Cut a piece of test fabric of at least 45mm X 10mm and place onto cardstock. Place a piece of blue wool scale onto another cardstock to be used as standard in evaluation. Cover a part of the fabric with the stencil plate (larger opening first) by pressing it carefully onto the specimen to achieve clear lines between illuminated and not illuminated parts.

Test performing

Place into the tester, expose the fabric (specimen and blue wool scale) to the Xenon light until the contrast between illuminated and not illuminated part of section 4 of Blue-Wool scale meets grade 4-5 of Grey scale. Exchange the stencil plate to the one with the smaller opening, cover the specimen carefully, place it into the tester and continue exposure to light. Stop the process when the Blue-Wool scale type 6 has achieved a color change difference of grade 4-5 of the Grey scale.

Specimens should be at room temperature before evaluation

The light-fastness of the specimen to evaluate should be compared to the part of the Blue -Wool scale which shows the contrast of grade 4 of the grey scale between exposed and un-exposed parts to light.

. Grey scale for color change
DIN EN 20105-A02:1994
AATCC 1
Blue- Wool standard (SDC) type 1-8


Minimum requirements: grade > 4



Please note: The color shade is only allowed to lighten up, but not to change the shade into another direction (e.g. col. black change to col. brown).





Purpose: Determination of the colorfastness for dyes and prints to commercial dry cleaning with perchloroethylene.

Apparatus and materials:
· Launder-Ometer
· stainless steel containers of approximately 500ml capacity, which can be closed using solvent resistant gaskets.
· 25 non-corrodible steel balls (diameter 6mm) per container
· multifiber (SDC = Society of Dyers and Colorists)
· Grey Scale
· Perchloroethylene
· Fume Hood

Specimen preparation
Cut one piece of 10cm x 4cm from the test fabric and sew it together with a piece 10cm x 4cm of multifiber material SDC on one short end only
All sample and container preparation must be conducted inside a fume hood cabinet.

Test procedure
· The test temperature is 30°C ± 2 °C.
· Place the specimen and 25 steelballs into the stainless steel test container and add 200ml of perchloroethylene.
· Put the container into the tester (Launder-Ometer) and start apparatus. Running time is 30 minutes at required test temperature.
· Remove the sample from the container; place the specimen between layers of white absorbent paper or white cotton cloth to remove surplus solvent.
· Hang or lay flat to dry the specimen and multifiber at a temperature not exceeding 60°C, take care that the multifiber and test-fabric do not touch each other.

Evaluation:
grey scale for color staining
DIN 54002
ISO 105-A03
SNV 195806
AATCC 2
grey scale for color change
DIN 54001
ISO 105-A02
SNV 195805
AATCC 1


Minimum requirement:
Type of evaluation Requirement

Tested specimen
color change
grade > 4-5
Multifiber
color staining
grade > 4-5
Solvent
color staining
grade > 4



Purpose: To check and confirm the color resistance to chlorine.of a dyed fabric


Apparatus:
Chlorine bleach, 5.2% active Chlorine (Clorox Brand Recommended)
Distilled water, small bottle with dropper


Procedure:
Condition the fabric (ASTM D 1776 using Standard Temperature Atmosphere). This atmosphere has a relative humidity of 65% ± 2% and a temperature of 20°C ± 2°C. Condition fabric for 24 hours until samples are in equilibrium with the specified atmosphere.

Cut one (1) specimen 2.5 in x 2.5 in.


TEST SOLUTION

1 part chlorine bleach
4 parts distilled water

Place the test specimen face up on a clean surface. Place one drop of solution on the testing fabric. Allow the solution to soak into the fabric and let it dry.

After the fabric is dry, visually evaluate the test specimen for loss or change of shade.


Report the result as “Safe” or “Unsafe”

Safe - Where there is no color loss or change of shade.

Unsafe - Where there is color loss or change of shade.













Purpose
To determine the color migration of fabrics into white or light colored prints, during transportation or storage


Apparatus
Drying oven with adjustable temperature and timer


Test method
Put the test specimen ( print applied to the original fabric) flat into the oven . Adjust the temperature to 70°C and leave the specimen in the oven for 48 hours.


Requirement
Evaluation by:

grey scale for color change
DIN 54001
ISO 105-A02
SNV 195805
AATCC 1



Grade 4-5 or better



Purpose
To determine the corrosion resistance of metal parts

Apparatus

1% sodium chloride (NaCl) solution (= 1g NaCl in 100ml dist. water)
white filter paper, size 100mm x 150mm
immersion dish
glass plate


Number of test specimen

10 specimen per metal component are required

Test Procedure

the test must be conducted under room temperature (23°C ± 2°C)
pour 100ml of the NaCl solution into the immersion dish
cover the immersion dish with a glass plate so that only a small opening remains
place one end of the filter paper through the small opening, let it rest in the solution (to allow the solution to be absorbed into the filter paper)
allow the remaining filter paper to lay on top of the glass plate (so that it remains saturated throughout the test)
place 10 specimens on the filter paper for 48 hours


Evaluation

After the required time, remove the metal components from the filter paper, check the filter paper and the tested petal parts for any signs of discoloration
If the metal part shows discoloration but the paper does not, the corrosion test has to be passed


Note:
The corrosion test for Salomon refers to the footwear corrosion test GE-53. This test will be conducted by Salomon laboratory in Annecy






Purpose: To determine the water repellency of fabrics
Apparatus: AATCC spray tester,
Distilled water
AATCC standard spray test rating pictures
Spirit (bubble) level
Specimen preparation
Conduct the test before washing and after wash & tumble dry 3 times (according to the wash method of dimensional changes of fabrics in home laundry).
Cut 3 test specimen 20cm x 20cm, from different areas of the test fabric (un-washed as well as washed).
Condition the specimens 20°C ± 1°C and 65% ± 2% RH.
Height of spray nozzle to fabric surface dimension should be 150mm ± 2mm
Using a spirit (bubble) level, make sure the spray nozzle is centered and hanging perfectly vertical. Check spray nozzle will allow water to flow freely and 250 ml distilled water will flow through within 25 to 30 seconds.
Test procedure
Fasten the specimen, face side up securely in the metal hoop so it has a wrinkle free surface.
The hoop is placed on the stand of the tester so that the fabric center position spray pattern, coincides with the center of the hoop.
Most fabrics specimens should have hoop placed on the stand with the warp direction vertical to the flow of the water. In the case of twills or fabric of ribbed construction, the hoop should be placed on the stand with the ribs diagonal to flow of the water.
Pour 250 ml of distilled water (25°C ± 1°C ) into the funnel of the tester and allow to spray onto the test specimen.
Upon completion, the hoop is taken by one edge and the opposite edge tapped swiftly once against a solid object with the fabric front facing the object.

Evaluation:
After tapping, the wet or spotted pattern is compared with the spray test rating chart
Chart grading scale (based on ISO ratings):
Minimum requirements:
All fabric types with water repellency

Before wash: grade > 5
After 3 wash/dry: grade > 4
Purpose: To determine the water resistance of fabrics
Test description:
Apparatus:
Automatic electronically controlled water pressure machine or the Suter water column tester
Specimen preparation:
Cut 3 specimens of fabric out of separate areas of the test yardage for before wash testing – cut each piece large enough to easily cover the open diameter of apparatus
- condition the specimen to 20°C ± 2° and 65% ± 2% relative humidity.
Cut another piece of fabric, large enough to easily get 3 specimen tests (each specimen will need to cover the open diameter of apparatus) – this piece is for the after wash testing.
Conduct the test on the samples before wash and after 3 times washed and dried specimens, according to the wash method of dimensional changes of fabrics in home laundry AATCC 135 - adidas 4.03.
Test performing:
Automatic electronic water pressure machine-
Make sure that the pressure chamber is properly filled with water. Mount the specimen onto the tester with the face touching the water. Close the clamps and start the machine
Suter water column tester Lay the test specimen over the lower open plate with face of fabric facing upwards, clamp the upper plate down holding the specimen. Turn switch to raise the hydrostatic head.
-Conduct the test on the unwashed specimen as well as, the 3 times washed and dried specimens
Evaluation:
The test will be evaluated on the amount of water pressure necessary to push three drops of water through the surface of the specimen.
Take the reading in mm, and report the number.
Minimum requirements:
If not mentioned differently in the AD fabric specification:
Automatic electronic water pressure machine-
before wash after wash
(3times wash and dry)
windbreaker fabric ≥ 450mm-600mm ≥ 300mm
waterproof fabric ≥ 1500mm ≥ 1200mm

For Suter water column tester:
before wash after wash
(3times wash and dry)
windbreaker fabric ≥ 450mm-600mm ≥ 300mm
waterproof fabric, please use the electronic water pressure machine





Purpose: This method is applicable to any fabric, which may or may not have been given a water - resistant or water-repellent finish. It measures the resistance of fabrics to the penetration of water by impact to predict the probable rain penetration resistance of fabrics (for USA market only).

Test description:
Apparatus and materials
AATCC Rain Tester
white AATCC Textile Blotting Paper
water at 27±1° C
Laboratory balance accurate to ± 0,1g
Sample preparation
3 - 8” X 8” inch test specimens are cut from the fabric. An additional specimen of fabric 30” x 30” should be washed and dried 3 times according to the method used for dimensional stability 4.03. After washing 3-8” x 8” should be cut from the fabric and marked as after wash.
The specimen should be conditioned in an atmosphere of 65% ± 2% rel. humidity and 21 ± 1 °C for at least 4 hours.
Procedure
Measure the weight of each of size 6” x 6” textile blotting paper and record weight amount.
Clamp the test specimen backed by the blotting paper in the specimen holder
Turn the rain-tester on with water level at 2 feet, this level must be maintained during the entire test time.
Mount the test assembly in a vertical, rigid support frame positioned to bring the specimen into the center portion of the spray at a distance of 12 inch from the face of the spray nozzle
A horizontal water spray is directed against the specimen and is allowed to continued for a period of 2 minutes
At the end of the 2 minutes period the blotter paper is carefully removed and quickly re-weighed, be careful to have dry hands and no water from the specimen can affect the weight of the blotter
Take the difference of before test weight to after test weight as the amount of weight to record.
A minimum of 3 specimens from each fabric or treatment should be tested, the average of all 3 is evaluated and recorded
Conduct the test before washing as well as after 3 times wash & dry
Evaluation
The water penetration is indicated by the increase in weight of the blotter during the 5 minutes test period. The average of 3 test specimens is reported.
Minimum requirement:

The water penetration (weight of blotter paper) < 1 gm.
Purpose: To determine the fabric's ability to transport water from the inside to the outside of the fabric
Limitation:
This test is not intended to give an absolute measurement of the fabric's
tendency to absorb water. Other factors such as construction, fiber type, dyes or finishing agents also influence fabric absorbency. This test can provide a rough index of fabric absorbency. Generally, the lower the rating, the better the absorbency properties of the fabric. This test is particularly applicable when comparing various finishes on a given fabric.
Principle:
Drops of water are placed on the fabric inside (backside of fabric) and the time it takes for the drops to be absorbed and spread to the fabric surface is measured. Conduct the tests before wash, after 3 and 10 wash & dry cycles (according to the wash method of dimensional changes of fabrics in home laundry).

Apparatus:
1. a 7,5 cm ( 3 inch) medicine dropper or dropper pipette
2. beaker of Distilled water at room temperature approximately 20°C
3. chronometer (or timer)

Test samples:
One test sample approximately 20 x 20 cm is needed

Test procedure:

1) Place the test sample flat on a smooth, horizontal surface
2) With the dropper held 1 cm above the sample, place one drop of water on the back side of sample fabric and start timer
3) Observe the drop, and stop the timer when the drop is absorbed into the fabric. If the drop has not been absorbed in 30 seconds, stop the timer and record -no absorbency - as the value. Absorption has occurred when the drop has penetrated into the fabric.
4) Repeat the test in 4 additional locations an the test sample in order to achieve the 5 values
5) The absorbency rating is calculated by obtaining 5 values, deleting the high and low values,
and averaging the remaining 3 values.

Note: When evaluating open weave or thin fabrics, conduct the test on at least two layers of the fabric. Otherwise, the liquid may wet the underlying surface, not the actual test fabric and cause confusion in the reading of the results.

Evaluation:
- The testing has to be conducted on an original fabric sample
- The durability samples are tested after the completion of 3 and 10 continuous washes and
tumble-dry cycles.
- The absorbency rating is calculated by obtaining 5 values, deleting the high and low values, and
averaging the remaining 3 values.

Requirement for good water absorbency
Knits < 2 seconds
Woven < 5 seconds


Purpose:
To determine the water vapor permeability of coated materials through which the passage of water vapor may be important. This method is used for hydrophobic coatings / membranes or high - density woven fabrics


Apparatus and material

· Conditioning cabinet, capable of circulating the air, kept on the specific temperature 40°C ± 0,6°C and relative humidity 90% ± 2%, at wind speed of approximately 0,5 m/s².
· Moisture absorption chemical: Anhydrous calcium chloride in the form of small lumps that will pass a no.8 sieve (2,36 mm), and free of fines that will pass a no. 30 sieve (600 μm). It shall be dried (over night) at 200°C before use.
· Chemical balance: The chemical balance, capable of weighing the mass of test body to the nearest of 1 mg.
· Water vapor permeability cup is non permeable for water vapor and free from corrosion, the cup aperture should have a minimum of 7 cm diameter

Test procedure:

Cut out of the fabric from different areas 3 samples, 2 cm wider in diameter than the cup opening. Put the moisture absorption agent into the cup, preliminarily warmed to appr. 40°C up to the position of appr. 3 mm from the upper end of the cup. Direct the surface of the test piece towards the moisture absorption agent side, place so as to be concentric circle to the water vapor permeable cup. Fix the fabric sample by wing nut. Further seal the equipped face side with vinyl adhesive tape and take it as the test body. Put this test body into the conditioning cabinet in which the air at 40 ± 2°C, 90 ± 5% RH . After 1 hour take out the test body and immediately measure the mass m1 (mg). Next again enter this test body into conditioning cabinet, after 1 hour take it out and immediately measure the mass m2 (mg)

Calculation:

Obtain the water vapor permeability according to the following formula, and express by average value of three times (until integer place).

WVP = (m2-m1) / (A x t)

WVP : water vapor permeability (g / m² x h)
A : water vapor permeable area (m²)
t : time (h)

minimum requirement for breathable coating → 3000 g/m²/24h
minimum requirement for breathable membrane → 5000 g/m²/24h





Purpose: To determine how fast the fabric can transform water into vapor.

Test description:

Equipment:
- conditioned room 20°C ± 2°C / 65% ±2%
- digital scale with an accuracy of 1/100th gram
- 7,5 cm (3 inch) medicine dropper or dropper pipette
- distilled water drop should be a consistent weight over all samples within 2/100th of a gram
- chronometer (timer)

Test samples
The test sample should have a consistent weight for all test samples and sized 100 cm2 (use sample cutter of m²-weight)
The test sample has to be dried and then conditioned (20°C ± 2°C / 65% RH ± 2%) for at least 2 hours.
The dry weight of the sample after conditioning must be recorded

Test procedure

- the test should be conducted in an conditioned room, 20°C, 65% RH
- place the sample on the scale, measure and record the weight
- remove the fabric sample from the scale
- place a drop of distilled water on the scale, remembering to keep drop weight consistent over all tests
- measure and record the weight of the water drop
- immediately place the fabric (back side down next to water) sample gently on the drop. Be sure to center the fabric on the drop
- start the chronometer (or timer)
- at 2 minutes intervals, record weight until the weight has returned to the original fabric sample weight
- graph data with the weight on the y axis and the time on the x axis

The durability of the moisture transport mechanism
Wash and tumble-dry the test fabric 3 and 10 times. Use the washing procedure as described in adidas 4.03.
Repeat the testing as described above.


Requirement:
Before and after 3 and 10 times wash and dry

< 30 minutes reaching a wt. of 0.0gms.



Purpose: This method covers the measurement of the air permeability of textile fabrics

Apparatus and material

Air permeability tester ( Textest FX 3300) consisting of the following:
· Test Head that provides a circular test area of 38 cm²
· Clamping system to secure the test specimens of different thickness under a force of at least 50 ± 5 N to the test head ; without distortion and minimal edge leakage underneath the test specimen
· A suitable means to minimize the edge leakage (note: air leakage influence the test result)
· Means for drawing a steady flow of air perpendicularly through the test area and for adjusting the airflow rate.
· Pressure gage or manometer
· Flow-meter to measure the air velocity through the test area in mm/s
· Calibration plate with a known air permeability test pressure at the prescribed test pressure differential to verify the apparatus


Test procedure:

The measurements can be taken directly on the fabric, 5 measurements across the fabric width are required.
Ensure the specimens are free of folds, creases or wrinkles.
Pre-condition the fabric in the standard atmosphere in which the testing is to be performed.
Place the fabric onto the test head of the test instrument, and perform the test as specified in the manufacturer's operating instruction.

Evaluation:

Report the average result (mm/s) of 5 measurements.
windproof. 0 - 10 mm / s
wind repellent: 10 - 50 mm / s
no wind protection: > 50 mm / s














Purpose: Determination of dimensional changes and appearance of woven and knitted garments after home laundering

Principle:
This test is intended to give an overall view of durability and stability of a garment under washing conditions, as would be used and seen by the consumer.
Each garment test should be tested according to the (order region) or selling region.


Apparatus and Materials:

· automatic front loading washing machine, European style, water ratio : loading 5:1
· automatic top loading washing machine, USA (Kenmore) small load liqour ratio 48L
· automatic tumble dryer
· facilities for line drying
· ECE or AATCC Standard Reference Detergent or regular wash detergent (without Optical Brightners)
· ballast of bleached CO sheeting or single jersey 180g/m² ( size 1 x 1y hemmed pieces) or
ballast of 100% Polyester Dummys -white (size each 14” X 14”) for dummy load to achieve the described machine loading.
· indelible ink marking pen for use with suitable rule, tape, marking template or other marking device
· measuring device
· tape or rule calibrated in millimeters
· scale with at least 5 kg

Test description

a) Sample preparation
Lay the garment flat, and without any tension on a table.
Mark the measurement points in length and width direction according to the article description.
Record the measurements between the benchmarks according to the article description before washing.

b) Test performing
Wash the specimen in a European washing machine or Wascator being adjusted to an European washing machine.
If the specimen is being sold in the US region wash the specimen in a top loading basic Kenmore washing machine.
Use the washing temperature and cycle as specified in the care label of the garment.

















-For washing –

-Using Front loading machine-
Add 50g of standard ECE detergent or washing detergent for pre-washing cycle and 50g for main -cycle. Add the garment and enough ballast to make sure that at least 70% of the machine filling is guaranteed. Remove the test wash load immediately after the final spin cycle and hang each garment on a hanger.
-Using Top loading machine-
Add sufficient standard household detergent (e.g. Tide, Cheer) measuring 2 gram for every liter of water.
Example: for a wash with 48L of water add 96gm. detergent.
Add enough ballast to make a 2.0 kg ± .1kg load.

- For Drying -
For Europe orders, allow the garments to hang in still air at room temperature until dry.
For USA orders tumble dry the garments according to the care label.
After drying the garments, lay each of them without tension on a flat, horizontal table. Measure and record the distance between the benchmarks.


Shrinkage evaluation after 3 times washing and drying :

Measurement before wash - measurement after washing
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- X 100 = shrinkage in %
measurement before washing


less than 100% = shrinkage (note this with ‘ - ‘ sign )
more than 100% = extension (note this with ‘+’ sign )



Appearance

Check the garment carefully after washing / drying for:
· discoloration (color change)
· color staining
· pilling (fuzziness), outside as well as inside
· side seam twist
· seam crinkling
· embroidery / print





Test Standards: Line Dry
Minimum requirements

KNITS WOVENS RIB RIB
All Knit Fabric All Woven Fabric (As Body Fabric) (As Body Fabric)
Construction Construction Without Elastane With Elastane



Fabric Properties

Content

Standard
(Length & Width)


Standard
(Length & Width)

Standard
(Length & Width

Standard
(Length & Width

100% Natural Fibers

100% Natural

(+/- 5%) x (+/- 5%)
max

(+/- 3%) x (+/- 3%)
max


(+3/-5%) x (+0/-5%)
max



(+0/-5%) x (+0/-5%)
max


Blends
(Chief Value Natural)


> 50% Natural


(+/- 5%) x (+/- 5%)
max


(+/- 3%) x (+/- 3%)
max


(+0/-5%) x (+0/-5%)
max



(+0/-5%) x (+0/-5%)
max


100% Synthetic



100% Synthetic

(+/- 3%) x (+/- 3%)
max

(+/- 2%) x (+/- 2%)
max


(+0%/-3%) x (+0/-3%)
max



(+0/-3%) x (+0/-3%)
max


Blends
(Chief Value Synthetic)


> 50% Synthetic

(+/- 3%) x (+/- 3%)
max

(+/- 2%) x (+/- 2%)
max


(+0%/-3%) x (+0/-3%)
max



(+0/-3%) x (+0/-3%)
max


Ribs

Used as Trim

N/A


(+0/-8%) x (+0/-8%)
max


N/A

N/A















Test Standards: Tumble Dry
Minimum requirements



KNITS WOVENS RIB RIB
All Knit Fabric All Woven Fabric (As Body Fabric) (AsBodyFabric)
Construction Construction WithoutElastane WithElastane


Fabric Properties
Content

Standard
(Length & Width)

Standard
(Length & Width)

Standard
(Length & Width)

Standard
(Length & Width)

100% Natural Fibers

100% Natural


(+ 5/ - 8%) x (+ 5 / - 8%) max


(+/- 5%) x (+/- 5%)
max

(+3/- 8%) x (+0/- 8%)
max


(+0/-8%) x (+0/-8%)
max


Blends
(Chief Value Natural)

> 50% Natural

(+ 5/ - 8%) x (+ 5 / - 8%) max

(+/- 5%) x (+/- 5%)
max

(+3/- 8%) x (+0/- 8%)
max


(+0/-8%) x (+0/-8%)
max


100% Synthetic


100% Synthetic

(+/- 4%) x (+/- 4%)
max

(+/- 3%) x (+/- 3%)
max

(+3/- 4%) x (+0/- 4%)
max


(+0/-4%) x (+0/-4%)
max


Blends
(Chief Value Synthetic)

> 50% Synthetic

(+ 5 / - 7%) x (+ 5 / - 7%) max

(+/- 3%) x (+/- 3%)
max

(+3/- 7%) x (+3/ -7%)
max


(+0/-7%) x (+0/-7%)
max


Ribs

USED AS TRIM


(+3/- 12%) x (+0/- 8%)
max

N/A
N/A
N/A














Purpose: Determination of dimensional changes and appearance of woven and knits


Apparatus and Materials:

· tub, big enough so that the garment can fit loose in (~ 30 L )
· the water level in the tube should be high enough so that the garment is well covered
· ECE or AATCC detergent
· detergent ratio 0,08%
· indelible ink marking pen for use with suitable rule, tape, marking template or other marking device
· measuring device in millimeter or inches
· scale with at least 2000g

Test description

a) Sample preparation:

Lay the garment flat, and without any tension on a table.
Mark the measurement points in length and width direction according to the article description.
Record the measurements between the benchmarks according to the article description before washing.

b) Test performing:

· prepare the washing solution, for smaller garments like T-shirts ~15L, for thicker sweaters
~ 20L
· soak the specimen into the washing liquid (hand warm to cold),
· leave it there for 10 min,
· press the specimen 10 times gently by hand
· leave the garment for another 5 min in the washing solution
· press the specimen again 5 times gently by hand
· remove the washing liquid from the tub
· refill the tub with clear water to rinse the garment
· place the garment in the water and press gently,
· repeat this procedure until the rinse-water in the tub is clear
· remove the water from the tub
· press the water out off the garment ( do not wring)
· either roll the garment in a towel to get the water out, or do a gentle spin -dry not more than 800 turns/min for 1 min.
· lay the garment flat on a table, gently adjust to form, let it dry
· after drying, measure and record the distance between the benchmarks.








Shrinkage Evaluation:

measurement before washing - measurement after washing
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- x 100 = shrinkage in %
measurement before washing


less than 100% = shrinkage (note this with ‘ - ‘ sign )
more than 100% = extension (note this with ‘+’ sign )






Appearance

Check the garment carefully after washing and drying for:

· discoloration (color change)
· color staining
· pilling (fuzziness), outside as well as inside
· side seam twist
· seam crinkling
· embroidery / print












Minimum requirements


Test Standards: Lay flat to Dry
Minimum requirements

KNITS WOVENS RIB RIB
All Knit Fabric All Woven Fabric (As Body Fabric) (As Body Fabric)
Construction Construction Without Elastane With Elastane



Fabric Properties

Content

Standard
(Length & Width)


Standard
(Length & Width)

Standard
(Length & Width

Standard
(Length & Width

100% Natural Fibers

100% Natural

(+/- 5%) x (+/- 5%)
max

(+/- 2%) x (+/- 2%)
max


(+3/-5%) x (+0/-5%)
max



(+0/-5%) x (+0/-5%)
max


Blends
(Chief Value Natural)


> 50% Natural


(+/- 5%) x (+/- 5%)
max


(+/- 2%) x (+/- 2%)
max


(+0/-5%) x (+0/-5%)
max



(+0/-5%) x (+0/-5%)
max


100% Synthetic



100% Synthetic

(+/- 2%) x (+/- 2%)
max

(+/- 2%) x (+/- 2%)
max


(+0%/-3%) x (+0/-3%)
max



(+0/-3%) x (+0/-3%)
max


Blends
(Chief Value Synthetic)


> 50% Synthetic

(+/- 2%) x (+/- 2%)
max

(+/- 2%) x (+/- 2%)
max


(+0%/-3%) x (+0/-3%)
max



(+0/-3%) x (+0/-3%)
max


Ribs

Used as Trim
(+0/-8%) x (+0/-8%)
max



N/A


N/A

N/A





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