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Tuesday, May 17, 2016

10 point system in fabric inspection

10 point system in fabric inspection
what is 10 point system in fabric inspection If you want to produce high quality garments, you need high quality piece goods. When a sewing factory receives fabric from the mill, it is difficult to conduct a full 100% inspection of the fabric. '''Apparel Search recommends a minimum 10% inspection of all piece goods prior to spreading the fabric. Many factories attempt to inspect the fabric during the spreading, but this is probably unrealistic to depend on the spreader to control the fabric quality evaluation. The fabric should be inspected prior to the fabric reaching the cutting tables. '''

There are several piece good inspection systems for measuring the quality of fabrics. Their is a Ten-Point System, which was developed in the 1950's. That system assigns penalty points to each defect, depending on the length of the defect. The system is a bit complicated because the points per length vary for warp and filling defects. There is also a Dallas System published in the 1970's. That system was developed specifically for knits. According to this system, if any defect was found on a finished garment the garment would then be termed a second. In regard to fabric, this system defines a second as "more then one defect per ten linear yards, calculated to the nearest ten yards." For example, one piece 60 yards long would be allowed to have six defects. Another system for evaluating piece goods is the Four-Point System. In this system, you should inspect at least 10 percent of the total rolls in the shipment. Make sure to select at least one roll or each color way. The defect classification works as follows.
Size of Defect:
3 inches or less = 1 point penalty
Over 3 inches but not over 6 inches = 2 point penalty
Over 6 inches but not over 9 inches = 3 point penalty
Over 9 inches = 4 point penalty

Note: a maximum of 4 points should be charged to one linear yard. Also, note that only "major" defects are charged.

The acceptable score varies. Many companies use 40 points per 100 yards as acceptable defect rate. However, others may find this not acceptable...

Here is some math to show you an example.

Total Yardage received: 5400
Acceptance Point-count: 40 per 100 yards
Total Yards Inspected : 540
Total penalty points found in the sample inspection: 150 points

150 divided by 540 times 100 = 27.77 points per 100 yards (because the allowance is 40 points per 100 yards, this shipment would be acceptable).

Above are only a few examples of fabric testing procedures. In fact, above is only a short summary of the processes. If you are responsible for inspecting fabric, you really will need to do more research on this subject

Sunday, July 15, 2012


RoHS is often referred to as the lead-free directive, but it restricts the use of the following six substances:
  1. Lead (Pb)
  2. Mercury (Hg)
  3. Cadmium (Cd)
  4. Hexavalent chromium (Cr6+)
  5. Polybrominated biphenyls (PBB)
  6. Polybrominated diphenyl ether (PBDE)
PBB and PBDE are flame retardants used in several plastics.
The maximum permitted concentrations are 0.1% or 1000 ppm (except for cadmium, which is limited to 0.01% or 100 ppm) by weight of homogeneous material. This means that the limits do not apply to the weight of the finished product, or even to a component, but to any single substance that could (theoretically) be separated mechanically—for example, the sheath on a cable or the tinning on a component lead.

ROHS test

Restriction of Hazardous Substances

The Directive on the restriction of the use of certain hazardous substances in electrical and electronic equipment 2002/95/EC (commonly referred to as the Restriction of Hazardous Substances Directive or RoHS) was adopted in February 2003 by the European Union. The RoHS directive took effect on 1 July 2006, and is required to be enforced and become law in each member state. This directive restricts the use of six hazardous materials in the manufacture of various types of electronic and electrical equipment. It is closely linked with the Waste Electrical and Electronic Equipment Directive (WEEE) 2002/96/EC which sets collection, recycling and recovery targets for electrical goods and is part of a legislative initiative to solve the problem of huge amounts of toxic e-waste. In speech, RoHS is often spelled out, or pronounced /ˈrɒs/, /ˈrɒʃ/, /ˈrz/, /ˈrhɒz/.

Saturday, July 14, 2012


Polyethylene is classified into several different categories based mostly on its density and branching. The mechanical properties of PE depend significantly on variables such as the extent and type of branching, the crystal structure and the molecular weight. With regard to sold volumes, the most important polyethylene grades are HDPE, LLDPE and LDPE.
  1. Ultra high molecular weight polyethylene (UHMWPE)
  2. Ultra low molecular weight polyethylene (ULMWPE or PE-WAX)
  3. High molecular weight polyethylene (HMWPE)
  4. High density polyethylene (HDPE)
  5. High density cross-linked polyethylene (HDXLPE)
  6. Cross-linked polyethylene (PEX or XLPE)
  7. Medium density polyethylene (MDPE)
  8. Linear low density polyethylene (LLDPE)
  9. Low density polyethylene (LDPE)
  10. Very low density polyethylene (VLDPE)
UHMWPE is polyethylene with a molecular weight numbering in the millions, usually between 3.1 and 5.67 million. The high molecular weight makes it a very tough material, but results in less efficient packing of the chains into the crystal structure as evidenced by densities of less than high density polyethylene (for example, 0.930–0.935 g/cm3). UHMWPE can be made through any catalyst technology, although Ziegler catalysts are most common. Because of its outstanding toughness and its cut, wear and excellent chemical resistance, UHMWPE is used in a diverse range of applications. These include can and bottle handling machine parts, moving parts on weaving machines, bearings, gears, artificial joints, edge protection on ice rinks and butchers' chopping boards. It competes with Aramid in bulletproof vests, under the tradenames Spectra and Dyneema, and is commonly used for the construction of articular portions of implants used for hip and knee replacements.
HDPE is defined by a density of greater or equal to 0.941 g/cm3. HDPE has a low degree of branching and thus stronger intermolecular forces and tensile strength. HDPE can be produced by chromium/silica catalysts, Ziegler-Natta catalysts or metallocene catalysts. The lack of branching is ensured by an appropriate choice of catalyst (for example, chromium catalysts or Ziegler-Natta catalysts) and reaction conditions. HDPE is used in products and packaging such as milk jugs, detergent bottles, margarine tubs, garbage containers and water pipes. One third of all toys are manufactured from HDPE. In 2007 the global HDPE consumption reached a volume of more than 30 million tons. PEX is a medium- to high-density polyethylene containing cross-link bonds introduced into the polymer structure, changing the thermoplast into an elastomer. The high-temperature properties of the polymer are improved, its flow is reduced and its chemical resistance is enhanced. PEX is used in some potable-water plumbing systems because tubes made of the material can be expanded to fit over a metal nipple and it will slowly return to its original shape, forming a permanent, water-tight, connection.
MDPE is defined by a density range of 0.926–0.940 g/cm3. MDPE can be produced by chromium/silica catalysts, Ziegler-Natta catalysts or metallocene catalysts. MDPE has good shock and drop resistance properties. It also is less notch sensitive than HDPE, stress cracking resistance is better than HDPE. MDPE is typically used in gas pipes and fittings, sacks, shrink film, packaging film, carrier bags and screw closures.
LLDPE is defined by a density range of 0.915–0.925 g/cm3. LLDPE is a substantially linear polymer with significant numbers of short branches, commonly made by copolymerization of ethylene with short-chain alpha-olefins (for example, 1-butene, 1-hexene and 1-octene). LLDPE has higher tensile strength than LDPE, it exhibits higher impact and puncture resistance than LDPE. Lower thickness (gauge) films can be blown, compared with LDPE, with better environmental stress cracking resistance but is not as easy to process. LLDPE is used in packaging, particularly film for bags and sheets. Lower thickness may be used compared to LDPE. Cable covering, toys, lids, buckets, containers and pipe. While other applications are available, LLDPE is used predominantly in film applications due to its toughness, flexibility and relative transparency. Product examples range from agricultural films, saran wrap, and bubble wrap, to multilayer and composite films. In 2009 the world LLDPE market reached a volume of almost 24 billion US-dollars (17 billion Euro). LDPE is defined by a density range of 0.910–0.940 g/cm3. LDPE has a high degree of short and long chain branching, which means that the chains do not pack into the crystal structure as well. It has, therefore, less strong intermolecular forces as the instantaneous-dipole induced-dipole attraction is less. This results in a lower tensile strength and increased ductility. LDPE is created by free radical polymerization. The high degree of branching with long chains gives molten LDPE unique and desirable flow properties. LDPE is used for both rigid containers and plastic film applications such as plastic bags and film wrap. In 2009 the global LDPE market had a volume of circa 22.2 billion US-dollars (15.9 billion Euro). VLDPE is defined by a density range of 0.880–0.915 g/cm3. VLDPE is a substantially linear polymer with high levels of short-chain branches, commonly made by copolymerization of ethylene with short-chain alpha-olefins (for example, 1-butene, 1-hexene and 1-octene). VLDPE is most commonly produced using metallocene catalysts due to the greater co-monomer incorporation exhibited by these catalysts. VLDPEs are used for hose and tubing, ice and frozen food bags, food packaging and stretch wrap as well as impact modifiers when blended with other polymers.
Recently much research activity has focused on the nature and distribution of long chain branches in polyethylene. In HDPE a relatively small number of these branches, perhaps 1 in 100 or 1,000 branches per backbone carbon, can significantly affect the rheological properties of the polymer.

Pearl-fibre Fabric

Pearl-fibre Fabric
 Naturally anti-Ultraviolet
 Skin-affinity & Nutrient.
 Breathable and Comfortable

Modal Fabric

Modal Fabric is boasted with its luxurious softness, the ultimate sensual feeling next to the skin.
MicroModal fabric is more developed fabric, with 1dtex fibre fineness.
MicroModal®Air fabric is more and more innovated fabric, with 0.8dtex fibre fineness.
ProModal® fabric is the perfect combination of Modal® fabric and Tencel® fabric, to unite outstanding softness with optimum function.

Thermocool fabric

ThermoCool is a Multi-functional and ecological evolution born from ADVANSA technological experience of modified cross-section fibres.
  The fibre is hollow with channel, keep the body at a comfortable temperature whatever the outside temperature or the physical inensity of your exercise. Without any kind of chemical Treatments, provide enhanced comfort coupled with moiture management during physical exertion.

Coolmax fabric


Coolmax is a trademark and a brand name for a series of moisture-wicking technical fabrics developed in 1986 by DuPont Textiles and Interiors (now Invista). The fabrics employ specially-engineered polyester fibres to improve "breathability" compared to natural fibres like cotton.
Structure: Coolmax fibres are not round, but are slightly oblong in cross-section with grooves running lengthwise along the threads. They are manufactured in either a tetrachannel or hexachannel style. The series of closely spaced channels creates capillary action that wicks moisture through the core and out to a wider area on the surface of the fabric which increases evaporation.
Uses: CoolMax fabric was originally developed for clothing intended for use during extreme physical exertion — sweat can evaporate quickly so the wearer is kept dry. Other useful properties include resistance to fading, shrinking and wrinkling. The fibres are now often woven with other materials like cotton, wool, Spandex and Tencel. As a result, CoolMax is found in a wide variety of garments from mountain climbing gear, to casual sportswear and underwear.
CoolMax fabric mattress covers and bed sheets have also been designed for those who have hot flashes or night sweating due to illness, medication or menopause.
Competitors: Most competing fabrics are made from polyester or nylon. Other brand names are Capilene® polyester, Supplex® nylon, Pertex® fabrics and polynosic rayons like Tencel®.
'Wick away' or 'wickaway' is a general term used for fabrics that are engineered to draw moisture away from the skin through capillary action and increased evaporation over a wider surface area.

Thursday, January 12, 2012

Tagless Care Labels

Tagless Care Labels

Although woven care labels have been an industry standard for a long time, they can sometimes be irritating even on adult apparel. To minimize the possibility of the tag, or remnants of the tag after being cut off, irritating your baby's gentle skin, Luvable Friends has chosen to switch to tagless care labels on all apparel items.
This is a change in progress, however, meaning that some older stock of baby clothes may still have the woven care labels, but all new clothes brought in will be switched to the tagless style.
Tagless care labels contain the same information as the woven type would have; sizing information, fabric composition, and washing instructions. All of this is printed on in a color that will be readily visible against the color of the fabric, whether it be black text on white fabric or white text on black fabric.

Tagless care label

Why Custom Tagless Care Tags? We would have to ask you: why not? For starters, no one likes itchy tags. Not only is this a selling point for us, it would be for you too! Advertising comfort to your Clientelle is key. Picture it : instead of showcasing some already known brand, you can have your very own Custom Tagless Care Tags printed inside your apparel. Imagine being branded with your company's logo and information on the inside. After all, you are looking for name recognition to grow your company. Your Customers will be impressed by your garments and will know where to go to purchase more. This is not only a benefit for those selling garments, but also for those ordering garments for events or even gifts. Place donation information on the inside for charity events, or use it as a birthday card for a gift! The Custom Tagless Care Tag is our specialty and it is offered at an affordable rate and low minimum (36 for Screen Printing and no minimum for DTG ). Most Printers have a minimum of 200 or more for this service. Tagless Threads wants to offer you a stress free experience. Most important thing to remember : Have fun with it!

Wednesday, December 14, 2011

Cotton thread

Cotton thread is another form of upholstery thread that is used for many jobs. This natural fiber thread can lend a soft look to the stitching in the upholstery. It is important to only use cotton thread that is preshrunk, so the stitching will remain flat. Also keep in mind that cotton does not stretch and is more subject to breaking than other types of upholstery thread. One advantage is that this thread is very easy to color, making it easy to match the shade of the thread with the upholstery material.

Upholstery thread

One common type of thread used in upholstering jobs is nylon thread. Often transparent, the thread tends to resemble fishing line and offers a great deal of strength. When the job calls for making the seams as discreet as possible in the design, this type of thick thread is often a great option, especially if the choice of fabric is canvas or a something similar. Olefin and other synthetic fibers also work very well with this type of upholstery thread.

Upholstery thread

Upholstery thread is heavy-duty thread used to bind sections of material together while upholstering a piece of furniture. The thread can be made from a wide range of natural and artificial fibers and is available in a wide range of weights. Much stronger than standard sewing thread, the choice of upholstery thread depends on the type of material being used for the upholstery project.

Polyester garment care clean

If the item contains at least 50 percent polyester, it can be cleaned with a spray upholstery cleaner. Before applying the cleaning solution to the entire surface, test it in a small spot that will not be readily visible to ensure that it doesn't cause the color to bleed. If the test area doesn't run, then the product is safe to use for the rest of the furniture.
When polyester fabric gets stained with oily substances, it's important to treat the spot promptly. If the spot isn't removed and the clothing gets heated in a dryer or by an iron, the stain will become set in. Instead, place it in the wash promptly and use a heavy-duty detergent. A pretreater may be used to loosen the stain beforehand.

Polyester care instruction

If the item contains at least 50 percent polyester, it can be cleaned with a spray upholstery cleaner. Before applying the cleaning solution to the entire surface, test it in a small spot that will not be readily visible to ensure that it doesn't cause the color to bleed. If the test area doesn't run, then the product is safe to use for the rest of the furniture.
Cleaning polyester fabric used to make furniture is a different process. Before using any type of cleaning product on couches, chairs or cushions, take the time to find out what the polyester content is. If it's less than 50 percent of the fabric, hiring a professional company to come out to clean the item is the best idea. They will use a process that is similar to the one used to dry clean clothing, which reduces the risk of stretching or damaging the fabric.

Polyester care symbol

When cleaning polyester clothing in a washing machine, use warm water and select the permanent press cycle. Turning the item inside out before placing it in the machine will keep the outside surface looking new for a longer time. If bleach is being used to remove stains, use only a small amount, since bleach products tends to break down fibers in fabrics. The clean clothes may be placed in a dryer on low heat when the wash cycle is completed.

Polester clean

Polyester is a synthetic fabric that is used to make a number of familiar items. It resists wrinkling, making it a popular choice for clothing. Polyester is also used to make upholstered furniture. To make it last longer, it's important to follow the proper cleaning instructions.

Polyester clothing may be washed by hand or in a washing machine. Hand washing is considered the safer option, since there is less chance of the garment developing unsightly snags on the outside. If a clothing item made of this fabric is being washed by hand, warm water and a mild detergent should be used. Once it has been washed and rinsed, it can be hung up to dry.

Modal fiber clean

If small stains have appeared on modal fabric, it may be possible to get them out with hand scrubbing and a gentle detergent. The fabric should not be soaked or vigorously rubbed to remove stains. The earlier a stain is treated, the better; when a stain is brand new, blotting with cool water can sometimes flush out the stain, especially if a gentle detergent is added to encourage the stain to lift. If the fabric becomes wrinkled, it can be ironed at a low temperature. Fabric that is dulled may benefit from ironing to restore the sheen by smoothing the individual fibers.

To avoid wrinkling while traveling, modal garments can be rolled up as opposed to folded. Rolling also tends to take up less space, leaving more room in luggage. Modal garments should not be left on hangers as the prolonged hanging can cause the garments to distort and may also break some of the fibers, weakening the garment and causing it to lose some of its elasticity. Such garments should be stored flat or rolled to protect the fabric while also avoiding wrinkles.

Modal care symbol

Some modal fabric items are delicate and they should be hand washed in cool water with a mild detergent, wrapped in a towel to squeeze out the water, and then dried flat in the shade. More robust items can be washed on a gentle cycle with cool water and then either tumble dried low on a short cycle or laid out to dry. Modal should not be washed or dried in high heat or subjected to bleach and other harsh cleaners.

Care instruction for MODAL fabrci

Modal fabric needs to be cleaned gently to avoid damage and help the fabric stay flexible and colorfast. When well cared for, this fabric is highly durable. Care directions can vary between manufacturers and finished products and if there are doubts, the care label on a garment or fabric product should be consulted if it is available.

This fabric is made from cellulose that is subjected to a series of chemical processes and then spun. It is very strong and flexible, with a famous durability that allows it to retain its sheen through multiple washings. Modal fabric is also colorfast and can be used for a variety of things from underwear to dresses.